Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks at Head of Pech Valley, Nuristan

Peaks at head of Pech Valley, Nuristan. After attempts to get permission to climb in Pakistan had failed, the Afghan embassy in Washington was approached about climbing in the Hindu Kush and they encouraged our plans. The expedition, which consist...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Skunk Canyon

Skunk Canyon. On the east face of Square Rock, Christian Griffith led Yellow Christ (50 feet, 5.12a R), ascending a very overhanging wall via a layback crack and face above. The climb had been top-roped by the first ascentionist prior to leading. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mountaineering Summary and Statistics

Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During 2003 in Kluane National Park Reserve, 140 persons participated in 42 mountaineering expeditions. This accounted for 2,279 person-days in the Icefields of Kluane. This is s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States, Tadjikistan, Muzcol Area, Various Ascents

Muzcol Area, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British-based company, EWP, led two trips into the Muzcol, a group of high summits in the southeastern corner of the Pamir. The first took place in 1996, when a team made ascents of five uncli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Atunraju and Other Peaks in the Chinchey group

Atunraju and other peaks in the Chinchey group, Cordillera Blanca. Three climbers left Spain by boat with 30 cases of food and equipment weighing about two tons. The rest of us flew to Peru. We all gathered in Huaraz on June 6. Coming from the Bas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Ulu Mountain, St. Elias Mountains

Ulu Mountain, St. Elias Mountains. Organized as a special event of the Second Artic Winter Games, our party was made up of Martyn Williams, Scott Foster, Jim Boyde, Louis Lambert and me as leader. We all reached the 10,160-foot summit of our objec...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Wisonsin, Devil's Lake State Park

FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn May 15, 1983, about 1415, the South Shore Office was notified that there had been a fall on the East Bluff. About 1420 I went to the fall site. About 1425, OfficersPyfferoen and Zipsie responded fro...


Club Activities AAJ
Yale Mountaineering Club

Yale Mountaineering Club. The winter of 1961 saw several trips to the White Mountains for climbing in Tuckerman and Huntington Ravines, mostly of a training nature to provide experience to new members. During the spring there was the usual concent...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Mount Everest, East (Kangchung) Face Reconnaissance

Mount Everest, East (Kangchung) Face Reconnaissance. In late October I flew from Chengdu to Lhasa to reconnoiter the approaches and routes on the east side of Everest in preparation for the 1981 American Everest Expedition. Accompanied by liaison ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin Region, Asan, Forever Yak, Previously Unreported

Asan, Forever Yak, Previously Unreported. In July, 1998, Martin Waldhör and I spotted an obvious dihedral and crack system that leads above an initial slab straight through the south face of Asan to finish high up on the southwest arête left of th...


Book Reviews AAJ
Rock for Climbing

Rock for Climbing, by C. Douglas Milner, viii+128 pages, with 97 photographs by the author. London: Chapman and Hall, 1950. Price, 25/-.In Rock for Climbing C. Douglas Milner presents an excellent picture book of climbs in the English Lake Distric...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ascarani, Peals in Spral Groups, Cordillera Apolobamba, and Illimani, North Ridge of North Peak, Cordillera Real

Ascarani, Peaks in Soral Groups, Cordillera Apolobamba, and Illimani, North Ridge of North Peak, Cordillera Real. Our expedition from Manresa, Spain, of the Centro Excursionista of the Bages district was highly successful. We carried out ethnologi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Paine Towers, Various Ascents, 1987

Paine Towers, Various Ascents, 1987. Italians Fabio Leoni, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Michele Cagol and Josef Espen made the first ascent of the southwest buttress of the South Tower of Paine, reaching the summit after four days of climbing on November 1...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Check Tie-In Knot, New Hampshire, Black Jack Crack

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO CHECK TIE-IN KNOTNew Hampshire, Black Jack CreekOn June 15, 1985, Mack Johnson (29) and Kit Dover (34) were sharing top ropes with two local climbers at the Black Jack Creek bouldering area near Rumney, New Hampshire.Johns...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountaineering in the Tetons: The Pioneer Period 1898-1940

Mountaineering in the Tetons: The Pioneer Period 1898-1940, by Fritiof M. Fryxell—Edited by Phil D. Smith, Jackson: Teton Bookshop, 1978. 180 pages. Price: Hardback $8.95; Paperback $5.95.This unique little book by two Teton pioneers whose Teton m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Qiouqe and Alfred Wegener Peninsulas, West Greenland

Qioqe and Alfred Wegener Peninsulas, West Greenland. The Upper Hesse Greenland Expedition had as its objective unclimbed peaks in the Qioqe peninsula at 72° N. Members were Robert Kreuzinger, leader, and his wife Anne, Kurt Diemberger, climbing le...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado: Devil's Head, near Deckers

Colorado: Devil’s Head, near Deckers. On 27 September 1949 James L. Naudack (18) was climbing over the rocky surface of this small mountain and attempted to jump a crevice. Failing to make it, he slid 15 feet down the face of the boulder formation...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pucaraju, Juego de los Reyes to Summit Ridge South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

In July, Nate Farr and I with the support of the AAC’s McNeill-Nott climbing grant attempted a new line on Caraz II, but were stopped by loose, overhanging rock down low. We returned to Huaraz, disheartened and without a mission. Adam French...

| Published 2009 | Author Marcus Donaldson, Portland, OR, AAC


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu Attempt

Cho Oyu Attempt. A Slovene (Yugoslav) expedition attempted to climb Cho Oyu by the south ridge. The leader was Matjaž Pecovnik. Marjan Frešer, Franc Knez and Danilo Tic reached the expedition’s highest point at 7700 meters, the highest point so fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge

Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge. On July1 Mitja Glescic, and I climbed a new route on the west face of Tocllaraju (6,032m). The route begins in the middle of the rocky section on the left side of the wall and then angles slightly to the right....