East McMillan Spire, North Buttress. On September 18 and 19 Doug McNair and I climbed this 2300-foot buttress. Beginning near its lowest point, we basically followed the right side of the buttress, gaining the sharp crest just below the summit. The approach from camp in Terror Basin took five hours. We reached the summit by mid-afternoon the following day. The rock was good until we reached the summit area, though often slabby and lacking cracks. There was minor aid in one spot halfway up the climb. NCCS IV, F7, A1.

Bryce Simon, unaffiliated