Colorado College Mountain Club. The year 1963 was one of mostly regional mountaineering for the CCMC. In addition to the usual array of Colorado peaks ascended, the group took to skiing, tobogganing, and increased spelunking. Three series of techn...
Nanda Devi Attempt. Our Australian expedition to Nanda Devi was unsuccessful. The team comprised Tom Miller, Gary Wills, Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft, Keith Egerton and me as leader. With 28 porters and 65 goats we departed Joshimath on August 23. Furth...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. On May 12-13 Ed Boulton and I made the second ascent of Willis Wall’s Central Rib. The climb was highlighted by numerous leads of continuous front-pointing on hard ice, a good-sized ice avalanche down the couloir parall...
Illimani, West Ridge, Illampu, Northwest Face, Huayna Potosí, West Face. Janez Zupanz and I spent two months in the Cordillera Real. After acclimatizing by climbing Condoriri and Alpamayo Chico, we climbed the west ridge of Illimani Norte (6402 me...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Membership in this section is now an even 100, continuing a slow gradual rise. Although section members have been quite active in mountaineering over the globe and in all phases, these activities have been organized ...
Mannolata. Second ascent, August 24th, 1938. R. Brinton, G. Dawson. In the final portion a variant of the original route was made, but flanked the final 15-ft. pitch to the S. E. and ascended a small 20-ft. chimney.
Mercedario, Central Andes. Five Chileans attempted Mercedario (21,884 feet) but hindered by deep snow, they made slow progress. On February 10 only two of the group, Julián Bilbao and Gastón Muga, reached the top. They had used the western approac...
Trango Pulpit, Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct. From June 28-August 4 (plus two days of fixing), Robert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per Ludvig Skjerven and Einar Wold established the Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct (VII A4 5.11, 48 pitches) on the Tr...
Shakhaur, North Pillar, Wakhan. The members of our expedition were Jean Paul Paris, leader, my wife Isabelle, Roger Dietz, Jean Pierre Fresafond, Paul Gendre, René Gillot, Claude Jager, Benoît Mathieu, Jacques Soubis, Jean Thomas, Felix Magnin and...
Rolwaling. Franz Ludwig Klement, his wife Annelie, Max Leonhard, Florian Maurer, Ferdinand and Max Pfordte and Harro Storck from Munich entered the Rolwaling valley and on March 14 set up Base Camp above Nangaon at 14,275 feet. Camp I was placed a...
Cordillera Real. In September, 1970 an expedition consisting of Ichiyo Muko, leader, Go Nishimura, Fumihiko Imamura, Koya Take- shita, Akinobu Nakamura, Norio Yamamoto, Ryoseki Kanai and Ichiu Muko climbed in the Cordillera Real before going to th...
Lotus Flower Tower. In July, Masakazu Fujiwara, Atsushi Saito and Eisaku Nozu completed a new route on the Lotus Flower Tower to the left of the 1968 McCarthy-Frost-Bill route. After fixing the first three pitches, they returned and did the route ...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Washington, North Cascades National ParkOn May 24, 1987, Tom Wiesman (33) was fatally injured while descending Mixup Peak. He was struck on the head by a falling rock and fell an estimated 400 meters over ro...
Bhagirathi III, West Pillar, Alpine-Style. After arriving at Nandanban on September 10, Scott Flavelle and I spent until September 22 acclimatizing. From September 23 to October 2 we made the first alpine-style ascent of the west pillar of Bhagira...
Perserajôq, West Greenland. Italians made the second ascent of Perserajôq (2259 meters, 7412 feet). Rising on the Qioqe Peninsula at 71°25'N, 52°00'W, it is possibly the highest mountain on the west coast. The first ascent was made by Piero Ghigli...
PROTECTION FAILED, FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyAt 0845 on June 20, 1989, Kent Kroeker (31) came to my residence saying that his climbing partner, Joe Kristy (43) had fallen on El Capitan and had broken his hip. I escorted him to the SA...
The Cobra, “From Afar,” Gorge of Despair, 1992. In July, 1992, Guy Keesee and I climbed this two-pitch route on The Cobra’s south face. It starts right of a huge alcove and climbs past three bolts into a crack. There is a bolted belay at the end o...
FAILURE TO COMMUNICATE, ILLNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 20, 1991, Larry Sorenson (51) experienced what he believed was a recurrence of acute colitis at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. Sorenson had also complained of gastro...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. For the past three years, my husband Haruyuki Endo and I have been engaged in special training to climb high mountains which combines normal advanced sportsman’s training and low-pressure, low-oxygen training in a depres...
Shivling, 1989. Our expedition from Italian Alpine Club’s Dueville Section was composed of leader Giacomo Albiero, Pierino Radin, Dr. Angelo Bogoni, Antonio Bortoli, Franco Brunello, Pierantonio Casagrande, Andrea Ercole, Sergio Grendene, Pietro P...