Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), west face, Ice Age, and north pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), northwest buttress, The Sound of Silence. When Ivar Tollefsen “discovered” the peaks of Queen Maud Land in 1994 and published reports and...
Mt. McKinley was climbed for the first time since 1913, early this summer when an expedition led by Alfred Lindley of Minneapolis and Harry K. Leik, Superintendent of Mt. McKinley National Park with Erling Strom of Lake Placid and Grant Pearson, a...
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, attempt and third ascent. In November Frenchmen Jerome Arpin and Sylvain Empereur attempted to climb Riders on the Storm in alpine style. They climbed 18 pitches in four days, but the weather changed, bringing v...
Makalu, West Face Attempt and Rapid West Buttress Ascent. The west face of Makalu was first attempted in 1977 and first climbed solo by Jerzy Kukuczka in October 1981. The route followed the left edge of the face and finished via the northwest rid...
Kirghiz Range, Tien Shan. From June 20 to July 18 ten Yugoslav climbers visited the Kirghiz Ala Tau in the Soviet Tien Shan. The Tien Shan stretch deep into China, while westwards they break into several lower parallel ranges. The Kirghiz Ala Tau ...
La Neige en Deuil, by Henri Troyat. 195 pages. Paris: Flammarion, 1952. Price, 390 Fr. frs.This is primarily a psychological novel, not a tale of mountain adventure, but it is unthinkable without its background of the French peasant’s home, the li...
Tangra Mountains, Komini Peak, west slope new rock route. Komini (774m: 62°39'10.1"S, 60°07’05.7" W) is one of the minor peaks on the side ridge descending northward from Levski Peak in the Tangra Mountains, which are situated on Livingston Island...
North-South Traverse of Southern Patagonian Icecap, Attempt in Late 1992 An Italian expedition consisting of Paolo Cavagnetto, Paolo Falco, Joel Blumenberg and Alberto Guelpa attempted unsuccessfully to complete the entire north-south traverse of ...
FALL ON ROCK, GEAR SLING CAUGHT ON CAM DURING FALL – STRANGULATING CLIMBERCalifornia, Kings Canyon National Park, ObeliskMy name is Patrick Callery. Our friend David Shirley and I were climbing with Ishun Chan on the South Face route of the Obelis...
USSR Pamir Camp. The 1987 season was wet and snowy, worse than the 1986 season. Pik Lenina saw the brunt of the activity, especially in early August. Lenina’s Lipkin Cliffs route was skied by a French group from Lyon. However, they lost skis and a...
Mount Foraker Attempt. Bill Coyle, Brian Okonek and I hoped to make on alpine-style ascent of Foraker’s northeast ridge via Mount Crosson. On June 27 we skied to the base of the southeast ridge of Crosson. The next day we climbed the ridge to 9900...
Colorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone Needle—Cleve McCarty, Tony Mueller (20), Rodney McWhinney and Robert Kulstad (27), Rip Collins (31) and Dick Wink set up a base camp at the foot of Crestone Needle (14,191 ft.) on August 23, 1954. Only tw...
Arches National Park, Miss Rosa Coldfield. The tower is the first landform south of the Phallus and was soloed in August (5.8 A2, 140 feet) by Dave Gloudemans via the south face. Tower of Babel, The Secret Journey (IV 5.5 A3+, four pitches, 550 fe...
New York, Shawangunks. On December 1st a student at the State University College in New Paltz was hiking with friends in the Trapps area. They followed a footpath to the top to enjoy the view. For the return the student elected to scramble down th...
Nun. Our expedition consisted of Austrians Willi Wehinger, Walter Bell, Kurt Kirchler, Götz Mayr and me as leader and German Hermann Huber. After a number of delays on the approach, we reached Tongul in the Suru valley on August 5. The porters wer...
Jannu. A New Zealand expedition led by Peter Farrell made an unsuccessful attempt on Jannu (25,294 feet) by a new route on the north face. On October 22 Farrell and Brian Pooley reached 24,000 feet.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaWhile leading the third pitch of Red Shirt on July 30,1994, Andrew F. (50) fell about nine meters, striking the belay ledge with his head. His helmet fell off, and ...
Musembeah Peak, Northeast Buttress. Two of the more alpine faces in the southern portion of the Wind River Range, the north and east faces of Musembeah, have been completely ignored by climbers. On September 11, Dick Ross, Jerry Fuller, and I foun...
Exploration of the High-Altitude Desert of Rupshu and Ascent of Mata, Southeast Ladakh. Our members were Chetan Bhattacharji, Rajbans Talwar, Vijay Jung Thapa, Ms. Rupa Dutta, Ms. Rohini Prakash, Ms. Seema Mishra, Gautam Das, Rano Gupta, Shantanu ...
Aconcagua, Ascents and Tragedy. It was reported that Lucien Berardini, who led the first ascent of the 3000-meter South Face in 1954, returned to Aconcagua in January with Hugues Beauzille to repeat the route. Arriving unacclimatized, and finding ...