Tsha Tung, first ascent. During my 2003 winter attempt on Xixabangma I noticed a small peak on the south side of the Phu Chu Valley just east of Eiger Peak (6,912m), as it was called by Doug Scott’s 1982 Xixabangma expedition. Later study showed i...
Trikora, Carstensz Group. Briton Jules Stewart, Spaniards Juan Luis Salcedo and I climbed a new route on Trikora on June 8. We approached from the north from Lake Habbema in two days to the Samalek Cave. We climbed the north face to reach the west...
Guidebook to the Interior Ranges. Professor F. K. Butters has kindly contributed the following notes:1. So far as I am aware the first traverse of Uto from S. to N. was made in 1911 by H. Palmer, T. G. Longstaff and myself. It was made on the same...
Mount Andromeda, Andromeda Strain, Columbia Icefields Group. In April Barry Blanchard, Tim Friesen and I completed the often tried “Andromeda Strain.” The route involved mixed climbing up to 5.9, A2 and required one bivouac. It is recommended but ...
Third Recess Peak, Serving Detention. The northeast side of Third Recess Peak features two striking arêtes that merge near the summit. In July Micha Miller and I climbed a new route (IV 5.10) that followed the left-hand arête for ten pitches. Star...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, SEVERED ROPEWyoming, TetonsOn August 19, 1980, Glen Milner (33), an experienced mountain guide, was leading John Alexander (44) up the west ridge route (F5) on Teepe’s Pillar. The weather was cloudy andwindy with the te...
TABLE III Operation Conducted ForStateHunters-FishermenAircraftClimbersOtherArizona00511California3301735Colorado213014Montana0003Oregon41411Washington7101914Wyoming0030TOTAL46127888Initial inquiry indicates that the bulk of “other” are hikers, an...
Mt. Dickey, Snowpatrol. After hearing vague rumors concerning a gorge with mixed lines 5,000' high, half an hour from camp, Andy Sharpe and I packed a spare pair of socks and headed out to the Ruth to see what we could find.We flew in and got dump...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 14, 1982, around 1400, Jim Slichter (27) was leading Pitch 24 of Pancake Flake on The Nose on El Capitan when an aid nut he was standing on pulled and he fell three meters. He st...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliff, Standard Route LeftOn February 17, the strongest leader, Tom, had apparently done the first (crux) pitch just fine. The second leader, Jim, fell while attemp...
Santa Cruz South Face. On June 7 and 8, Emil Tratnik, Andrej Lužnik, Peter Poljanec and I climbed the 1200-meter-high south face of Santa Cruz. We had very bad snow conditions and had to bivouac when we gained the west ridge. In the last part ther...
Mt. Joffre, Smell the Roses. Joffre’s northeast face has a nice chimney/gully line, just left of the central pillar. It rimes up well in winter, with just enough snow and ice to be tempting. On my first attempt, with Mike Spagnut and Andrew Port, ...
Devil’s Thumb, West Buttress, 1990. In pounding rain in May, 1990, Jim Haberl, Michael Down and I helicoptered from Petersburg to set up Base Camp at the fork of the Witch’s Cauldron just north of the Devil’s Thumb. When the weather cleared, we le...
Himalchuli Ascent and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Las- zlo Berzi, Sandor Csanadi, Peter Greskovits, Dr. Antal Kallo, Laszlo Katona, Jozsef Csikos, Istvan Szabo, Gyorgy Toldi, Istvan Tolnai, Csaba Toth, Laszlo Voros and I as leader....
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Prowed and Free; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, speed ascent. On July 2 Nathan Martin and I started our 34-day expedition to the Tasermiut fiord in southern Greenland by climbing the dead-straight 2,500-foot route Non C’...
Chaturangi Glacier, First Ascents. From June to July, Amitabha Roy led a Rocks & Snow Expedition that succeeded in climbing two unnamed peaks in the Chaturangi Glacier area. Base Camp was established at 5030 meters on June 25, Cl (5180m) on Ju...
Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Louis Audoubert, François Poissonier, Patrick Marcelot, Lionel André, Paul Vuillard, Annie Dubois and me. On December 1, Sundare Sherpa and I left Base Camp at 4700 meters and got to 7100 me...
Pico Schulze, southwest face; Punta 5,505m. Three new routes were added to the southwest face of Pico Schulze (5,943m), a fine fluted snow-and-ice pyramid northwest of Illampu (6,368m) in the northern Real. These may be the first new routes on the...
Pakistan, Mountaineering Developments. Pakistan has opened peaks up to 6500 meters for climbing without liaison officers or peak fees, except in restricted areas. It is now possible to obtain 30-day visas on arrival at airports.
Four Gables, North Peak via East Face. This was a new route, done June 15, 1974 with Mike Levine, following the buttress on the face seen plainly from the highway north of Bishop. Once on the buttress, reasonably sound granite led the climbing to ...