Pat Goodman, José Miranda, and I first attempted this line in February 2012 with a Jonny Copp Foundation Grant, completing four pitches, but Pat and José both got injured. We felt some serious voodoo from the wall, and so decided to come back ...
In January 2013, Miquel Sanchez, Alfons Valls, and I climbed a possible new route on Bisotoon. Along with Joan Sole? and Edu Sanchez, we first repeated a classic line, Gharagash (1,200m, MD), to get a feel for the rock. This took us two days, w...
. I left Huaraz on October 14 with aspirant guide Yonny Rosales to teach a guiding course. Our itinerary included Shacsha, Huruashraju, Rurec, and Cashan, in addition to some rescue training. After a couple of days in the mountains we decided t...
The second International Rock Climbing Festival, organized by the Iranian Mountain Federation and Iranian Alpine Club, took place in mid- October on the magnificent ca 2,700m Bisotoon. This mountain in western Iran, near the city of Kermanshah,...
Florian Burger (Austria) and I left Huaraz on August 18 with a plan to climb the west face of Yerupaja in the Cordillera Huayhuash, but due to unpredictable conditions were forced to choose a different objective at the last moment, opting fi...
The Geyikbayiri area is popular for sport climbing, but when Michael Pearson and I traveled there in July we had trad in mind. Our goal was the possibly unclimbed 600m northwest face of Geyik Sivrisi (Sivridag). This limestone face is about thr...
In June 2012, Asa Firestone and Gil Weiss traveled to the Cordillera Blanca. During a day trip to scope out conditions on the south face of Ranrapalca, they were enamored by the brilliant flutings on the west face of a sub-peak, Palcaraju Oeste...
On March 24, Peruvian climber Jorge “Coqui” Gálvez, who had made two previous attempts on the southeast face of Nevado Chicon (5,530m), began climbing alone toward the mountain’s slightly lower northeast summit. Gálvez started his approach a...
On May 27, 2012, German climbers Michi Wohlleben, Johannes Arne, Bergau Jahn, and photographer Hans Hornberger traveled to Lima to attempt Jirishanca (6,094m). From Huaraz they headed to Chiquian, and a few days later set up a base camp above C...
While climbing La Esfinge in the Paron Valley in 2011, the Ecuadorian climber Joshua Jarràn (IFMGA) took interest in the northwest face of Huandoy Este (6,070m). In August 2012, he decided to try the route with aspirant guide Juliana García. ...
In June, a group of Spanish mountaineers, Jorge Perez, Eduardo Ruiz, and Jose Martinez, climbed a new route up one of the central summits of the Coropuna massif from the south. This great snow-capped mountain, approximately 150km northwest of A...
In June 2012, Michael Wejchert and Erik Eisle (U.S.) made an ascent of the rocky south ridge of Urus Este (5,420m), believing the line to be unclimbed. [This expedition was backed by an AAC Mountaineering Fellowship.] Previously unrecorded, the...
Nocarane Volcano (5,787m) is located on Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, close to Arequipa. Beginning in May 2012, Xavier Ossola and various partners established three new routes on a rocky aspect of the southwest face, which does not ...
Inspired by Pavle Kozjek’s climb Stonehenge on the northeast buttress in 2007 [AAJ 2008], we were eager to climb a new line on this stunning 5,410m peak. On July 13, Saskia van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and I f...
Robert Middleton and Hannah Moulton climbed what are believed to be two new, or newly reported routes on Cerro Caja Real (5002m, 12°9'59.8" S, 75°38'57.6 W), located in Yauyos. The peak is granite, however there is much loose rock, meaning that...
Nevado Carhuachuco, new route. On November 10, during a guide course by the Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP), aspirant guide Xavier Ossola and Micher Quito (IFMGA) climbed a new route, Listos Para Hacer Barras (300m, MD M5/6 55-80º), ...
In January 2013, Marco Jubes, Dani Moreno, and I managed to put up a new line on Ritacuba Blanco (5,350m) in the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. We choose an unclimbed line on the central wall: a huge, vaulted ceiling, with many roofs. We climbed the fir...
Karina Filgueiras and Bito Meyer opened three new routes on the Paredão Enamorados wall, near Agulhas Negras in the Parque Nacional de Itatiaia, located outside of Rio de Janeiro. In August, Filgueiras and Meyer established No Amaryllis (220m, ...
After climbing the standard route from the east on Greenland's highest mountain, Gunnbjornsfjeld (3,693m), Carlos Calderas, Carlos Castillo, Marco Cayuso, Martin Echeverria, and I climbed several peaks to the north of Gunnbjornsfjeld that Pa...
During 14 days in August, Line Veenstra and I climbed a number of peaks in northeast Milne Land. We accessed the island by boat from Constable Pynt, and followed the Korridoren Glacier west, moving camp often and making many side trips. We rent...