Harvard Mountaineering Club. Members were active in many areas again this year. As usual, difficult rock climbing was done in the Te- tons, Yosemite, and at Tahquitz Rock. Steve Arsenault was outstanding in this respect, doing several classic grad...
Lhotse South Face Attempt. Christophe Profit and I failed to climb the south face of Lhotse due to high winds. On our first attempt from October 6 to 10, we escaped from the great couloir on the left but at the bottom of the central dihedral we di...
Cordillera Castillo and Northern Patagonian Icecap. We five New Zealanders climbed in Chilean Patagonia: Dave Bamford, Paul Milsom, Geoff Spearpoint, Ian Thorn and I. We were in the Cordillera Castillo to the north of Lago General Carrera in Decem...
Kumbhakarna. A team of six Canadians led by Ken Legg climbed the south ridge of Kumbhakarna (Jannu; 7710 meters, 25,294 feet), making the 20th ascent of the peak. Robert Driscoll and Michael White reached the summit on April 15.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWisconsin, Devil's Lake State ParkIn late May, a rock climber was rescued after falling about 40 feet. The 20-year-old man was taken by helicopter to University Hospital in Madison after he was stabilized by firs...
Shigri Glacier, Lahul. The all-woman Abinger expedition, under the leadership of Mrs. Joyce Dunsheath, and composed also of the Misses Delaney, Gregory, and Reid, spent the second half of May and June 1956 at the head of the Chandra valley on Shig...
Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, first ascents; Pik 4,995m, attempt. After a two-day drive from Bishkek into the Kokshaal region, Dave Swinburne and I were dropped off on July 20, having arranged to be collected at the same point on Aug...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On July 24, Mr. Louis W. Whittaker, age 26 (Mount Rainier professional guide), suffered severe lacerations of the right leg and minor lacerations of arms when he tripped (wearing crampons) on rock on the Gibra...
New Traverse from Hermit Hut. Miss G. Engelhard, Ern Feuz Leaving Hermit Hut at 5.30 a.m., August 27th, 1933 crossed Sifton glacier and traversed Mt. Grizzly (9,061 ft.; 3 hrs 30 m.) an intermediate peak, and Mt. Ursus Minor (9,026 ft.), descendi...
Kang Karpo Tragedy, 1991. Kang Karpo (6740 meters, 22,113 feet), as it is called by the local population, is known as Meili by the Chinese. The highest mountain in Yünnan, it has resisted strong Japanese and American attempts. In late 1990, a part...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington—On February 28, Peter K. Luster (Leader, 21), Boyd N. Everett, Jr. (22) and James Wheeler (19), all members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, were ice climbing in Damnation Gully in Huntington Ravine. Luster, who is...
JANET MAE JOHNSON1935-1973On or about February 1, 1973, Janet Johnson died of exhaustion and exposure near the summit of Aconcagua. She was with a party of four, of whom one other member, John Cooper of East Houston, Texas, also perished. Details ...
Baintha Brakk Attempt. Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) was attempted by Spanish Catalans Toni Casas, Joan Amils, Elias Coll and Jordi Sunyer. They had hoped to make the first ascent of the southeast face. They established Base Camp at 4400 meters on July...
Foraker. The southeast ridge of Foraker was done by my wife Shari and me. We were on the ridge from May 9 to 18 and summited on May 15. We followed the original route except at the bottom, where we climbed the left spur (an earlier variation) to a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,OFF ROUTEAlberta, Chinaman’s PeakOn June 28, Allan J. (30) was leading pitch eight of the Northeast Face route (450m, 5.6) on Chinaman’s Peak about 1300. He tried to go straight up from the ...
Annapurna III Attempt and Tragedy. A Slovene expedition led by Boris Strmšek attempted a new route on the southwest face of Annapurna III (7555 meters, 24,787 feet). They placed Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 4050, 5100, 5750 and 6600 meters. O...
Peak 8,920', East Face, First Ascent. Smith Curry and I landed on the Thunder Glacier with few plans and knowledge of the area. On the flight in, we scoped out the West Buttress of Hunter, but an active serac thwarted our desire to do the route. S...
Boulder Canyon, 1982. On the right side of Security Risk, Eric Eriksson and I climbed Comfortably Numb (120 feet, 5.12a), featuring 55 feet of overhanging face moves along a thin crack. The climb had previously been cleaned and one bolt placed on ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE New York, ShawangunksOn June 21, a female climber (21) was being top roped on Squiggles when she fell. The problem was that rather than clipping a carabiner onto the knotted loop at the end of th...
Dieppe Mountain, Roosevelt-Churchill-Stalin Group, Muskwa Range. After our previous visit (A.A.J., 1986, page 184), we were so enchanted with the region of many unclimbed peaks that we returned in 1987. The problem is the approach with ferrying fo...