Looking west from the mountain the 2019 team called Dromedary Peak. The conspicuous sharp summit on the ridge at the far side of the valley is Peak 1,569m. “Castle Peak,” climbed by the 2019 expedition, is the next main (pyramid-shaped) peak on ...
The unclimbed east face of Northern Sun Spire (e). The upper section of A Grand Day Out, which climbs the west face, is marked. The mountain marked (a) is Peak 1,881m, climbed by the west ridge. Tom Harding In a year when the rapid melting of...
When I first came to La Huasteca to open the route Nayeri (500m, 12b, AAJ 2010) and later Pau (550m, 5.13b, AAJ 2016), both on the Tatewari Wall, I saw a beautiful black, north-facing wall across the valley. It was begging to be climbed. La Pared...
Martin Siller on pitch 11 of Xibalbá Uprising (850m, 5.12a/b) in Cañon del Sumidero. Photo: Jan Hoebeeck For millions of years, the Grijalva River carved the Cañon del Sumidero, and it is now one of the most important tourist attractions ...
Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m) from the northwest. (1) Tcheu c'te Panthère (2019). (2) Central Couloir (2010). (3) Black Wolves and Blue Poppies (2011). (4) Approximate location of past French and Slovenian attempts. (5) Southwest ridge (2003). Photo...
The 2019 route on the northwest face of Bogda V. The final difficult ridge to the top is not visible. Photo: Li Zongli Dili Xiati and Li Zongli made their first attempt on the northwest face of Bogda V in 2010. [Bogda V is here defined as the...
The west face of Abi in the northwest Siguniang Range. (1) Chen-Hua-Tong Route (2019). (2) Shivering (Yan-Zhao, 2010). Until 2019 there was only one route on the west face of Abi (5,694m): Shivering (5.7 M3 AI2, Li-Yan-Zhao, 2010). Chen Chuju...
Abi from the southeast. (1) West face and southwest ridge (Shivering, Li-Yan-Zhao, 2010). (2) Breakthrough (Wang-Xiang, 2019). (3) Graduation Exam (Liu, 2014). On the original ascent of Abi, in 2004, French climbers continued up this large snow ...
In mid-October, David Suela and Felipe "Tronko" Valverde from Spain climbed a hard new ice and mixed line on the west face of Chugimago (Chukyima Go, 6,258m), between the 2014 Hennesse-Kastelic line (the original route on the west face) and the 20...
While acclimatizing before unsuccessful attempts on the south face of Nuptse and south face of Lhotse Shar in the spring, Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tozas (Spain) climbed a steep ice couloir on the northeast flank of Ama Dablam's southeast ridge. T...
The west face of Goksøyra and the lines of (1) Midnattsol, (2) Winter in Norway like SummerT in Tatry, (3) Ice Forest, (4) Vertical Garden, and (5) No Wet, No Fun. Photo by Kacper Telieki Goksøyra (1,330m, 62°38'33.31"N, 8°8'41.59"E) lies clo...
Diamantfinner on the north face of “Moltbaertinden North.” Gerber Cucurell In the Kirkefjord area, on the island of Moskenesøya, Bernat Bilarrassa, Jordi Esteve, and I climbed a couple of new routes in May. We first tried the north face of Br...
Nora's Gully on the west face of Rulten. See AAJ 2010 for other routes to the right on this face. Luka Krajnc In AAJ 2019, Chris Wright (USA) reported new routes on Stortinden and Brettviktinden climbed with Jon Bracey (U.K.) and Luka Krajn...
Vaffelvika on the north side of Krikktindan. Photo by Chris Wright On March 17 a strong, young Lofoten local named Stian Bruvoll and I took advantage of a rare day off work to poke around the fjords. We had a million ideas, as usual, but as S...
On August 16, 1931, the legendary Norwegian mountaineer Arne Randers Heen, with his cousin Eirik Heen, became the first to climb any of the Trolltind summits directly from the Romsdalen, when the pair completed the 1,550m Fiva Route to Store Tro...
Bondit Peak (a.k.a. Bondid, formerly Muntin) is a prominent mountain of a little less than 6,000m situated near the head of the Bondit Glacier at 35°20'29.06"N, 76°16'27.59"E. The Bondit Valley rises southwest from the Kande Valley, which in tur...
In April 2018, a team of eight, mostly French, did a 150km ski tour going up the Nobande Sobande Glacier, across the Skam La (5,600m), and down to Snow Lake and the Biafo Glacier. On April 24, Hélias Millerioux and Léo Taillefer (both from France)...
Terzo Paradiso (700m, AI5 M5) on the south side of Gateway Ridge, Börgen Bay. The drop-off point was off the right side of the picture, while the pick-up point was off the left side. Photo by Marcello Sanguineti Gian Luca Cavalli, Manrico...
Calvarin Peak from the southwest with the approximate line climbed by the French team to make the first ascent. Photo by Manu Pellissier French guides Sam Beaugey and Manu Pellissier, with their client François Calvarin, left ALE's Union Glac...
Four climbers and two Moroccan Berber friends sat with feet dangling over a dizzying precipice, slaking our thirst with a Flag beer and finally resting our shredded hands. Mohammed’s beat box chanted melodic Berber tunes, which competed with the s...