Nun, Kun, White Needle and Pinnacle Peak. These peaks are now being frequently climbed. Aside from ascents noted elsewhere, Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was climbed by French led by O. Pierre, Swiss led by Michel Roch and Japanese led by Masaki ...
Too Many Darts. Tim Auger and I arose to do the East Side of Bridalveil. A quick game of darts and we set off. We never found the correct route, but just started climbing up obvious cracks to the right of the East Side route. The first pitch start...
Saraghrar South, Udren Zom South. Under the leadership of Kenichiro Yamamoto, the Hitotsubashi University Expedition left Chitral on June 27 and established Base Camp at 13,125 feet on the Rosh Gol Glacier on July 4. On the 9th Camp I was placed i...
Menthosa. An expedition of the Frosinone section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Vittorio Kulczycki, leader, Lorenzo Favè, Antonio Colasanti, Roberto Ferrante, Roberto Franceschetti, Luigi Lauro, Leone Mincio, Vicenzo Monti, Luciano Pl...
Paine Towers, 1989-90. The season in Patagonia had even worse weather than usual. In the Paine Towers Italian Guido Bonvicini made a solo ascent of the Torre Norte on November 25, 1989. That same day Mario Manica and Fabio Leoni also climbed the s...
FALL ON ROCK, EPILEPTIC SEIZUREWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 5,1987, Paul Sims (20) suffered an epileptic seizure while climbing. This caused him to fall. His belayer held him, but the seizure caused Sims to shake, and he then hit his...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez failed.
Huascarán Norte and Pisco. Raúl Bárcena Y, Guillermo Díaz R, Antonio Carmona and Vicente Hinojosa A climbed the normal route on Huascarán Norte, reaching the top on August 3. On August 11 Carmona, Samuel Díaz M, Andrés Méndez and Guillermo Díaz R ...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Summetry Spire. At 2100 on 13 August Joe Hogsed (19) and Betty Lu (21) were climbing the Durrance Ridge. They had completed the ridge and were scrambling the last 250 feet to the summit. The weather was bad; rain and thunder...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Swiss Stefan Wörner and Germans Hans Engl, Heinz Zembsch and me. We crossed into Tibet from Nepal via Kodari/Zhangmu, went to Tingri for a few days of acclimatization and continued by truck t...
Oak Creek Canyon, Pic de Coubertin. In celebration of the Olympic Centennial, the UIAA (which was in the area for a committee meeting) hired two local guides, Cameron Kern and Richard Elmquist, to climb an unclimbed formation, fix both pitches, an...
Chogolisa Attempt. An 18-member Italian expedition led by Augusto Zan- otti attemped unsuccessfully to climb Chogolisa. Details are missing.
Neuzeitliche Bergrettungstechnik. By Wastl Mariner. 183 pages; sketches. Notes on first aid by Dr. Med Hans Seidel. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1949. Price about $1.75.In a country where mountaineering accidents occur quite frequently one might ex...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. In June and July, 1996, Scott Backes, Ed Pope, Betty Roberts and I visited the Cordillera Real. We first traveled to the Jhanko Kota region, where we made a quick ascent of Cerro Wila Llojeta (5244m). I then soloe...
Kang Guru, avalanche tragedy to French expedition. The worst disaster ever to befall an expedition in the Nepalese Himalaya struck a seven-member French team trying to climb 6,981m Kang Guru. The only previous death on the mountain was that of a W...
BushidoThe complete north face of Kalanka in India’s Garhwal.Yusuke SatoLying in our wet sleeping bags, we have just finished brunch—20 grams of instant mashed potatoes apiece. Our tent site, squeezed under a rock, is so narrow that the three of u...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS—OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCE, EXHAUSTION, DEHYDRATIONUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Lisa Falls CouloirOn June 26, the Salt Lake County Sheriff's SAR team was notified that two members, from an original ...
ROCKFALL, POOR POSITION, POOR JUDGMENTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith CavellOn August 20, two climbers (F 43, M 54) began ascending the North Face route on Mount Edith Cavell. They began at 1500 on a hot day, when rock fall is at its wo...
It was July 2009 when Christian Beckwith showed me a picture of Mt. Logan. Captioned “The 3,000-meter unclimbed south face,” it immediately captured my imagination. The attractive phrase was part of it, but so was the mysteriousness of the mountai...
Sierra Club, 1947. The 43rd Annual High Trip, with an attendance o£ about 100, travelled for four weeks under the leadership of D. R. Brower (A.A.C.) in the central Sierra Nevada, from Banner, Ritter and the Minarets S. over Silver and Seldon Pass...