Jaonli Peak, Garhwal. An expedition of Indian schoolboys and two schoolmasters, led by Hari Dang of the Doon School, attempted 21,760- foot Jaonli Peak in the Uttarkashi district of Garhwal. They were stopped at 19,300 feet by bad weather.
Nuptse, Northwest Peak. Although the seven-man-and-a-woman Japanese expedition did not reach the main summit, it could by no means be called a failure as they climbed the long northwest ridge which overlooks the lower western Cwm of Everest and re...
Vega Peak. This peak lies directly north of Morning Star Peak, and is prominently seen from Barlow Pass. Paul Williams, Klindt Vielbig and I had come to attempt it on the morning of September 4. Taking the Sunrise Mine trail from the Mountain Loop...
Chopicalqui, Entire Northwest Ridge. From the Llanganuco valley on July 30 Alberto Campanile and I climbed the trail towards the Portechuelo (pass), which we left before the high point. We climbed the moraine of Chopicalqui’s north side to the beg...
Jangyaraju, from the Southeast. After an unsuccessful attempt on the west ridge of Huandoy Oeste by Trev Briggs, Les Brown, George Jackson and me, in early July Brown and Briggs climbed Janyaraju from the Quebrada Llaca from the southeast via the ...
New peaks in Southwestern Chinn. In a splendidly illustrated article in the National Geographic Magazine for October, 1930, Dr. Joseph F. Rock reports a visit to a new district of 20,000-ft. peaks in southwestern China. The highest is Minya Konka,...
South Watchtower, Cirque of the Towers. On July 22 Court Richards and I left camp on Lonesome Lake to climb the east edge of the south face of South Watchtower in seven hours. The first five leads were free climbing, at first on somewhat loose fla...
Tanraniyoc, Cordillera Central. Southwest of Huancayo, about 12 miles east of Yauyos, is a range of rock peaks and small glaciers that has received almost no mountaineering attention. In June Mike Stewart and I hiked in from Yauricocha on the nort...
Citadel, Nothing But Time. On September 2 Jimmy Haden and Michael Pennings climbed a new route on the north face of the Citadel. Their route, Nothing But Time (IV 5.10+) starts just right of the low point of the face and climbs the leftmost of thr...
Saliojla and Condortucco, Cordillera Vilcanota. We were struck by the worst weather in fifty years right at the beginning of our Vilcanota trip. Two horses died and we had to bring the ill wife of our doctor back to civilization under bad conditio...
Haydon Peak. Barbara Stitt and I reconnoitered the south side of Mount St. Elias in May and June. On June 4, along with the Austrians Hassler and Stüwe, we climbed Haydon Peak (3641 meters, 11,945 feet) via its north face from Haydon Col. We belie...
Dhaulagiri VII, North-Northeast Face. (This first-hand account supplements the notes written on page 304 by Elizabeth Hawley in last year’s Journal.) The Singapore Dhaulagiri VII Expedition, which I led, took place from September 26-October 27, 19...
Colonial Peak, New Route in Winter. On February 8 and 9, Marc Twight, John Stoddard, Monte Westlund, and I climbed a direct line on the north face of Colonial Peak. Having seen this face towering 2000 meters above the North Cascades Highway for ma...
DEHYDRATION, HEAT EXHAUSTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 11, 1983, John DeVries, a New Zealand climber, required rescue from El Capitan as a result of heat exhaustion. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)AnalysisPaul Au...
Bhagirathi I, South Ridge Attempt. An expedition from Tokyo failed to climb Bhagirathi by its south ridge. Base Camp was established at Nandanban at 14,450 feet on August 14; Camps I, II and III were at 15,250, 16,750 and 19,550 feet. On September...
Mount Waddington, First Winter Ascent. A1 Steck, Bill St. Lawrence, Les Wilson, Bob Cuthbert, Dr. Barry Hagen and I flew to the Tiedemann Glacier from Prince George on February 18. Even before the ski-equipped Otter plane had landed, we were pleas...
Alberta, Rockies, Jasper National Park. At 6:00 a.m. on April 9, Harvey Sloan (29) and his wife (22) began to climb to the North Face of Roche a Perdrix Mountain at the east park gate of Jasper National Park. They were both inexperienced, and had ...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Although our expedition under the leadership of Jean-Pierre Frésafond arrived in Islamabad on April 8, we had to wait for two weeks until we could take the road constructed along the banks of the Indus by the Chinese. And the...
Salute the Mountains — 100 Walks in the Alps and Salute the Skier — 100 Ski Runs in the Alps, by W. Pause, translated from the German (Berg Heil and Ski Heil). London: George G. Harrap & Co. Ltd., 1962/1963. Each book 212 pages, 100 photograph...
Koa Rong IV. Our expedition comprised Lieutenant Colonel Richard Hardie, John James Farquharson, Graham Hall, Corporals Jeffrey Schuneman and Ian Clegg, Lieutenant Tom Beese, Sergeant Gareth Davies, Lance Corporal Anthony Dean and Troopers Ian All...