K2 attempt, 1991. After a long approach from Pakistan via Kashgar and Sughet Jangal, we eventually reached the tongue of the K2 Glacier on May 22, 1991. The camels withdrew and we established Depot Camp. We were Romano Benet, Alberto Busattini, Fi...
Bookmark Pinnacle, Between The Sheets, Lumpy Ridge. In June Bill Wylie and I made the first ascent of Between The Sheets (II, 5.11d). The route follows the thin crack on the wall just left of Fantasy Ridge but right of Sidewinder Cracks. Two bolts...
Colorado, Ellingwood Arête, Crestone Needle—On August 15, Charles Dotter (38) and his wife were climbing the Ellingwood Arête. Climbing conditions were good. They had proper equipment, including one rope (120 feet of 7/16 inch, nylon). They climbe...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mt. McKinleyAI Aaporta and Josef Carmichael (age unknown) were near the top of the couloir on the West Rib about 13,000 feet on May 29 when they were swept off the route by an avalanche which carried them 1500 feet down the route ...
Num Themga and Other Peaks, Losar Valley, Western Spiti. The aim of “Spiti Adventure— 1994” was to climb in the Losar valley, where 14 peaks over 5900 meters rise above the Suvita Nala. The highest is Karcha Parbat (6271 meters). Joss Lynam and pa...
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonK.G. and M.J. (both 19) were in a party of four climbers who were camped near the Dome, a feature near the base of the Kain Face on Mount Robson. They left their ba...
Kwangde Lho, north face in winter. In January 2008 Vladimir Belousov and Alexander Novikov made a calendar-winter ascent of Kwangde Lho (6,187m) via a new route on the Hungo face. The Russians’ original aim was a line between the Breashears-Lowe D...
Accidents. On May 3, a large British group was descending the West Rib. At 14,800 feet, one member slipped and fell 800 feet, sustaining serious head injuries. The group’s CB radios were set to broadcast on a frequency not monitored by Base Camp, ...
Lang Shisha Ri Attempt. Japanese and Nepalese under the leadership of Isao Yamazaki attempted the south ridge of this virgin peak (6294 meters, 20,650 feet) by its south ridge. One Japanese and one Nepalese reached 19,300 feet on October 9 after a...
Traverse of the Western Arm of the Cordillera Raura; Ascents of Azuljanca, Pukacalle, Rumiwayin Oeste, Rumiwayin and Yerupaj.* Our goal was to traverse the whole western arm of the Cordillera Raura from north to south and to climb the peaks. In 18...
Hair in My Cheeseburger, CrystalVision. In April Paul Emrick and I headed down the S.O.F.B. Gully on the South Rim of the Black Canyon to try a new route, The route, which shares the start of 2001’s Stay Puft Buttress, was done in a day with no bo...
Block Tower and Warbonnet, Southern Wind River Range. The Iowa Mountaineers 1958 summer-climbing base camp was held at Lonesome Lake August 11-22. Thirty-three members plus guests participated in the outing and climbed 17 major peaks, several unna...
Huascarán Nordic Ski Descent. During July, Jimmy Katz and I made the first nordic (cross-country, three-pin) ski descent of Huascarán. We encountered very difficult snow conditions but made the complete descent from the summit. During acclimatizat...
Chugach Mountains, ski traverse. In April we skied from Valdez, Alaska, to the Glenn Highway by way of Mt. Thor and the Matanuska Glacier. We parked at the Valdez airport and slogged up the Valdez Glacier, over the steep Cashman Col, across the Ta...
Cordillera Raura and Cordillera de la Viuda, First Ascents. The Peruvian climber Alberto Murguía and I traveled by bus to Mina Raura, located northeast of Lima and surrounded by rock and ice peaks. The employees of the mine gave us ample hospitali...
Anyemaqen. A German-Austrian group made an ascent of Anyemaqen on June 10 from the south.
Cerro Rincon, New Route, and Punta Amigos, First Ascent. It was November 27. Once more, the alarm clock rang at 3 a.m. After 15 days of continuous rain, we didn’t give ourselves much of a chance to climb another peak on this trip, even though we h...
Alaskan Climbs Appearing as Full Articles. Aside from the climbs reported here, the following are covered in complete articles: the east face of Mount Russell, Foraker’s Infinite Spur, the northwest face of Mount Hunter, the Eroica route on Hunter...
California, Parsons Peak, Yosemite National Park. On 8 October Frank Schreve (25) was leading a party on the slopes below Parsons Peak. Upon approaching a snowfield, he attempted to examine the terrain to see if it could be crossed safely. In so d...
SEIZURES–FAILURE TO INFORM GUIDES OF MEDICAL CONDITIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressA Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. guided party led by Dave Hahn flew to the Kahiltna on June 28 for a climb of Mount McKinley. The nine c...