Himalchuli Attempt. Nine Japanese led by Ken Hashimoto attempted Himalchuli (7893 meters, 25,895 feet) by the unclimbed southwest ridge. Two members reached a high point of 24,925 feet on October 24 on this very difficult route. Their progress had...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Diamond ForkOn September 24, 1982, Lyal Holder (56) was the course instructor for a beginning rock-climbing class from Brigham Young University’s Education Department. The class was practicing rappelling....
Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge. During the first week of August, Jack Lewis and I climbed the northeast ridge of Mount Alberta. We bivouacked the first night at the base of the upper black band, the second on an airy site on the knife-edged cornic...
CB 13a. Japanese Takashi Aoka, Masanobu Ohuchi and high-altitude porter Pyarl Lal climbed CB 13a (6240 meters, 20,473 feet) on August 10 from the South Dakka Glacier. The leader was Takashi Chiku.
Numbur. Helmut Muller and I traveled to Jiri by bus and then made a seven-day approach via Junbesi, Basa Drangka, over a 4352-meter pass to the Dudhkunda Khola. We set up Base Camp on October 10 at 4600 meters at Yüligolcha, a little lake on the w...
East McMillan Spire, North Buttress. On September 18 and 19 Doug McNair and I climbed this 2300-foot buttress. Beginning near its lowest point, we basically followed the right side of the buttress, gaining the sharp crest just below the summit. Th...
Mount Brooks, Southeast Face. Thai Verzone and Paul Snotherman climbed a new route via the southeast face. Further details are lacking.
K12. Yoshihiko Yamamoto led the Ichikawa Alpine Club expedition. They left Khapalu on June 17 and were at Advanced Base on the Lofomorumba Glacier at 15,000 feet when a violent snow storm caused their porters to run away. Camp I was established on...
Mount Moffit, Southwest Ridge. A pair of Japanese medical students sat on the Talkeetna airstrip for ten days before they could be ferried to the eastern fork of the Trident Glacier on July 23. They were landed at 8700 feet. After the plane left, ...
Baintha Brakk, Southeast Buttress Attempt. Tom McMillan, Dr. Peter Crecelius and I arrived at Base Camp at 4450 meters on July 12. There was a Japanese team already on Baintha Brakk (the Ogre). Our proposed climbing route led to the head of the Ch...
Mount Despair, South Face. The second ascent of this peak was made July 24 by Cliff Lawson, Doug Barrie, and me by a new route, which begins in a prominent S-shaped gully in mid-face. The gully ends in a grassy platform from which several short di...
Hurry Up Peak, Northeast Glacier. On June 16, 1969, Don Turnbull and I left Cascade Pass and descended into the Pelton Creek Basin. We ascended 1800 feet up the small glacier to the Pelton-Magic Col. A descent of 1000 feet was made to reach the gl...
Cordillera de Huallanca. Our expedition was organized by the Club Alpino Paulista with the collaboration of the Faculty of Geology of São Paulo, Brazil. It was composed of the Brazilians Luiz Guilherme Assumpção, Jair Laguna, Jorge Piotowski, Ital...
Tirich Mir, Ascents and Tragedy. On June 14 the three Japanese members of the "Barbarian Club Tirich Mir Expedition" led by Ayumi Nozawai arrived at Base Camp (4800 meters). Despite an initial period of unsettled weather they climbed in a lightwei...
P 12,019, East Face, Beartooth Range. On July 24 Wally Hunter and I made the first ascent of the east face of P 12,019 It is located at the end of Rock Creek between Glacier and Moon lakes. After 1½-mile approach, we climbed a snowfield to the bas...
Colorado, Estes Park, The Thumb. On 20 September Jim Russell (17), Gary Hartman (16), and Penny McMahon (16), one of two parties, started to climb The Needle. Jim Russell took the first lead and arrived at the ledge about forty feet above the grou...
P 6039, P 6744, P 6855, P 6151, Chugach Mountains. On June 3, Bob Jacobs, Jeanie Nelson, Will Martin and I were dropped off by wheel-skied aircraft in an unnamed glacial valley five miles southeast of the junction of the Bremner and Tana Lobe Glac...
Snow Creek Wall, Iconoclast. This route lies between Galaxy and Outer Space, beginning with the first pitch of Remorse and ending with the last pitch of the Outer Space crack. It was climbed June 13 by Mead and Tom Hargis. Mead writes, “Unfortunat...
Wala Peak 141, Mandaras Valley. The peak marked as number 141 on the Wala map (c. 1 7,720 feet) was climbed for the first time by J. J. Asper, Dr. F. Dombre and W. Tschan. Other members of this Swiss expedition were René Dittert, leader, Dr. R. Br...
Nevado Juncal, Portillo district. This very high mountain, located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, some 15 miles south of the ski resort of Portillo, was visited by a party of two members of the mountain club of the Universidad de Chile at Sant...