Middle Scottish Peak, East Face. From the setting, rock and quality, this 5.6 climb deserves mention. From the North Star Glacier, the east face rises as a smooth slab. We climbed a pitch up the right side of the face to a prominent ledge, moved 1...
ILLNESS, PARTY SEPARATED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith CavellOn July 30, 1988, three climbers started early to climb Mount Edith Cavell via the East Ridge. They reached the first step at an elevation of 2940 meters, when one of the climber...
Dharansura, Angdu Ri. A 10-person expedition from Bombay made two ascents in East Kulu. On July 5 A. Ghosh, Miss V. Gadre, S.M. Farookh and W.M. Pinto climbed Angdu Ri (5953 meters, 19,530 feet). On July 8 leader Zuzer Rangwala, A. Eicher and Bada...
Tarke Kang, Ski Descent. A small four-member group of Czech mountaineers (Robin Baum, leader, Vladimír Smrž, Vladimir Prieložný, Josef Peterek) traveled to Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7193m) with the goal of climbing the north face and then s...
Desmochada, Puerta Blanca. On February 7 Mario Walder (Austria) and I hiked in from Campo Bridwell to Niponino, the camp directly below El Mocho. In unstable weather we waited another day and only hiked to the base of the route to check everything...
Shingu Charpa, First Ascent. It was reported that Shin Dong-Chul, Bang Jung-Ho and Hwang Young-Soon, all of whom were part of the Korean team that attempted Amin Brakk in 1999, made the first ascent of Shingu Charpa (5600m) in July via the west fa...
Logan Mountains. Hans Ueli Brunner, Paul Muggli and I left Switzerland in early June for the Logan Mountains. On June 19 to 21 climbed the Frost route on Lotus Flower Tower with much snow, though the conditions on the face were good. We climbed th...
Cho Oyu, East Ridge Ascent and Tragedy. A team of 14 Russians, a Ukrainian and a Bashkir was led by Sergei Yefimov. They succeeded in climbing Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) by the formidable east ridge, which has a 70-meter-deep gap with 80° ...
FALLING ROCK Washington, Magic MountainUlrike Criminale (52) fell to her death during a climb of Magic Mountain on July 31, 1988. She and Craig Dupler were climbing partners for this trip. Craig was also the climb leader.The group of six climbers ...
Preliminary Report on the Southern Summer Season of 1993-4. On December 31, Argentines Teo Plaza and José Chaverri were making a new 1100-meter route on the Aguja Stanhardt’s east face (6b, A2, 80°). A hundred meters below the top of the face, Pla...
Alpine Club of Canada. The 1960 ski camp was held at Berg Lake near Mount Robson during the Easter holidays, April 15-28. Ski conditions on the way to Berg Lake were not of the best owing to the late date of the camp. However, everyone had an enjo...
Juneau Icefields. Our group of four spent from July 8 to August 1 on the Juneau Icefields, landing with Ken Loken on an unnamed lake on the British Columbia flank (above Tulsequah Lake) and made the combination hike and cross-country-ski trek out ...
Mount Johnson, The Elevator Shaft. Jack Tackle and Doug Chabot climbed this strenuous route that ascends a couloir on the north face. The difficulties included marginal protection, 90° snow and ice, and A3 rock. An account of their climb appears e...
FALL ON ROCK, ROCKFALLColorado, Poudre CanyonLate in the day on May 23 a female climber (31) was injured when she was struck by a rock and fell about 20 feet in Poudre Canyon, which is northwest of Fort Collins. She suffered a broken ankle, a crus...
Nun. After a Japanese expedition had failed to climb Nun, the mountain was climbed by members of a 21-member Swedish team. Two reached the summit (23,410 feet) on September 16 and four more on September 20.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Peruvian Ascents. Peruvian climbers made two first ascents: Cochamarca (15,910 feet) in the Cordillera Raura south of the Huayhuash giants was climbed on May 15 by Máximo Luna Jiménez and Pascual Papa Castillo of the Club Andino Oyón; Leoncocha (1...
Wyoming, near Green River—On December 12, 1956 Lawrence Erwin McCune (15), Franklin Hofeldt (15), and Arland Pope (15), while returning from hunting decided to climb a steep cliff in the Scott’s Bottom area. McCune persisted in the attempt after t...
Taven Bogd. The mountains near Mongolia’s border with both Siberia and China are little known. Mongolia’s highest mountain, Taven Bogd (4374 meters, 14,350 feet) lies on the country’s western border. It was climbed in 1991 by Netherlanders Ronald ...
Dickey, Barrille and P 7580. A five-man Japanese party led by Koji Naka climbed Barrille by its northwest face on May 5, 1976 and Dickey and P 7580 two miles northwest of Barrille on May 6.
Uzun Brakk Attempt. Jim Donini and I had as objective a two-man alpine-style climb of Uzun Brakk (6422 meters, 21,069 feet). My wife Joanne accompanied us to Base Camp. Technically, the peak is still unclimbed by any route, although the British ca...