South America, Chilean-Argentinian Patagonia, Fitz Roy and San Lorenzo, 1983
Fitz Roy and San Lorenzo, 1983. On January 15, 1983 the constant bad weather cleared, allowing two ascents of some importance. Slovaks led by Tibor Surka and including Michal Orolin, Vladimir Petrik, Zdenek Brabec and Robert Gálfy completed the first ascent of the 7000-foot-high west face of Fitz Roy, which they had attempted a year ago. (See below.) Climbers from Bariloche climbed San Lorenzo by the de Agostini route from the west. Tulio Calderón, Oscar Orizzi, Guillermo Zampieri, Alex Scheuer, Jorge Rivera and Mario Gutiérrez Burzaco set out. Gutiérrez, who is 60 years old, waited on the foresummit while the rest continued along the summit ridge to the top. I don’t have news of the other expeditions today (February 3, 1983). There are Japanese and two Slovenes on Fitz Roy and climbers from the Centro Andino Buenos Aires on the steep ice east face of San Lorenzo. [We hope to complete the accounts of climbs in the 1982-3 season in A.A.J., 1984.—Editor.]
Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina