FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED, PROBABLE THOUGHT PROCESS IMPAIRMENTWyoming, Tetons, Grand TetonOn September 16 at 1100, Russ Soderlund (40) was climbing the Owen-Spalding route on the Grand Teton with a friend, Gretchen Rupp. Sode...
On Some of Gertrude Bell’s Routes in the OberlandMiriam E. O’BrienIN 1901 and 1902 Miss Gertrude Bell and her guides, Heinrich and Ulrich Fuhrer, made a great many remarkable climbs in the Oberland. They were, of course, much more remarkable at th...
Dariyo Sar, first ascent; Pt. 6,250m, first ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents of two peaks on the Baltar Glacier. After an unsuccessful attempt to reach the northwest spur of Rakaposhi as part of a larger Italian expedition, Renzo...
Mount Moran, 1922-1962Leigh N. OrtenburgerWith sections written by James P. McCarthy, Pete Sinclair, John Hudson, Don Anderson, Fred Beckey and Ted VaillIn the forty years which have now passed since the first ascent of Mount Moran, judged by Fryx...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY,EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Bishops TerraceKeith Kramer (22) was planning on climbing Bishops Terrace with a new climbing partner who had little to no experience. Kramer did...
East Face of Fitz RoyMiguel Angel Gallego, Club Montañero de Murcia, SpainAT THE SOUTHERN tip of the American continent, the moutains of southern Patagonia offer climbers some of the greatest possibilities for adventure in the whole world. In my o...
The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory. Peter and Leni Gillman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 329 pages. $27.95.Since the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999 high on the flanks of Mt. Everest, a firestorm of media has refue...
Point JAMES, east face; Nazomi Peak, southeast face; Triple Crown, southwest ridge from the west. Natasha Sebire and I spent five weeks in the Miyar during August and September. From the standard base camp below Castle Peak, we concentrated our ef...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...
HYPOTHERMIA, DEHYDRATION, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18,1994, Paul Laeremans (39) and Ingrid Baeyens (38) of the German AMICAL expedition, along with other members of their expedition, began descending the West Buttress route from 14,300...
Avalanche Fatalities in Himalayan MountaineeringDavid M. McClungIntroduction. Avalanches are probably the greatest single cause of fatalities in Himalayan mountaineering and the avalanches as well as the fatal accidents they cause have their own d...
Mount Forel. The second Greenland expedition of Nihon University was led by Hiroshi Nakajima. They traveled from Angmagssalik to Kungmiut, the innermost village of the fjord, and then on to Sioralik. After a sledge trip of 25 days, they arrived at...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPON—FALL ON SNOW Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe Spanish expedition “Lleida McKinley ’96” had eleven climbers in the group, including Juanjo Garra (32). They began their ascent of the West Buttress on May 19. On June 1 at 1300, while a...
Everest, uncommon events on standard routes. In the spring a Greek expedition sent one climbing team to the north side and another to the south to carry to the top their flags of the 2004 Greek Summer Olympic Games. They were the first Greek exped...
ELIZABETH COWLES PARTRIDGEQuite likely her many friends have quite different memories of Betsy, for she was exuberant in her enjoyment of many things. Mountains were her consuming passion—but only one of several. People really interested her the m...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—New York, Adirondacks,Wallface Mountain. On August 13, a group of six climbers from Rochester, New York, and three from New York City attempted different routes on ...
The Western Chugach Range, AlaskaJ. Vincent HoemanThe eastern boundary of the Chugach Range has not yet been properly defined, but the western limit is definite, and at this extremity the city of Anchorage flourishes between the arms of Cook Inlet...
FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWyoming, Gannet PeakOn August 10 about 1300, the Sublette County Sheriff’s dispatch center received a call from a party of five on the summit ridge of Gannet Peak (13,804 feet). The party...
NORMAN F. ROHN1919-1989I first teamed up with Norm Rohn during a Sierra Club trip to the Palisades over Labor Day in 1974. We climbed the rib between the two Underhill Couloirs and proceeded to the base of the impressive summit block of Thunderbol...
Asgard, Baffin Island. The Auyuittuq National Park guide states that one could be excused for not wishing to return if the “summers” of 1972 or 1974 had been experienced. Quite naturally then, Les Ellison and I concluded that if the daily 1978 sto...