Diran. A British expedition led by Flight Sergeant William Batson of the Mountain Rescue Team of the Royal Air Force is said to have put three members onto the summit. Details are lacking.
La Norvège d’aujourd’hui, edited by Per Vogt. 160 pages, 160 photographic illustrations. Oslo: Editions Dreyer, 1950.The stern magnificence and varied character of the Norwegian scene are here outlined. Among the subjects treated are ancient monum...
Tehipite Dome, Southwest Face. In July, Norm Weeden, Curt Chadwick, and I climbed the 2500-foot face of Tehipite Dome. We started several hundred feet below and left of Fred Beckey’s route on the Dome. Three hot days of mixed free and aid climbing...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The principal activity for the Section in 1989, as it has been for the past several years, was the continuing Silcox renovation project. Our group raised over $50,000 for this renovation of the second ski-lift hut in the U....
Storebror, Trillingerne Group, Tasissarssik Fjord, East Greenland. Our expedition was made up of José Ramón Melón I, Albino Quinteiro M, Santiago Suárez A, Antonio Dourardo I and me. We made in August the second ascent of the highest mountain in t...
Gyachung Kang. The Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions expedition was composed of Ichiro Yoshizawa, deputy leader; Yukihiko Kato, Takeshi Takeda, Kazunobu Machida, Kiyoto Sakaizawa, Tadao Kitamura, Kazunari Yasuhisa, Toshiro Kikuchi, Chu...
On September 13, after two earlier attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point above the heads of the Changping and Shuangqiao valleys. The north and west faces above the Shuangqiao are ...
Old Snowy, Alaska Range. Eleven members of the Alaska Alpine Club, led by Buck Wilson and me, used their spring vacation from March 23 to 26 to make the first ascent of Old Snowy (9700 feet) in the Castner Glacier area of the eastern Alaska Range....
Pico Bolívar, North Face. To celebrate the 44th anniversary of the first ascent of the highest mountain in Venezuela, I made on April 3 the first solo ascent of the north face of Pico Bolívar (5002 meters, 16,410 feet), reputedly one of the most d...
Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. It was reported in a Climbing magazine article that the team of John Mattson and Josh Zimmerman, with photographer John Burcham, was active in Little Switzerland. Numerous photographs of the area document the t...
Ayr Lake. The Alpine Club of Canada held an Alpine Climbing Camp of 14 people on Ayr Lake, about 40 kilometers west of Clyde River on the northeast coast of Baffin Island, from May 4 to 25. We had seen the area in 1973 and 1977 on our flights to S...
Middle Bell Tower, South Face. On September 1 Rich Ream and I approached the base of the Middle Tower after a two-hour hike up Bell’s Canyon. Two weeks earlier, Rick Reese and Rich had climbed the large dihedral on the right side of the face to a ...
FALLING ROCK Wyoming, TetonsOn August 6, Shad Dusseau, Terry Green, and Leo Larson, Park Rangers, were climbing the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton on a routine mountain patrol. Dusseau had led the first ice pitch and was belaying Larson when...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Table Rock Mountain, Slipping Into DarknessOn November 1, M. H. (mid 40s) and his two sons (7 and 14) attempted the route slipping into Darkness (5.9), a variation on Helmet B...
Sigunian Shan, Sichuan. In September 1994 I was based out of Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan. From here I made two exploratory trips into the exceptional mountains of Kham, on the eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. First I visited the Songpan re...
Yanamarey Sur, Quisuarraju, Millishraju I and II, Artesonraju, and Curicashajana, Cordillera Blanca. Our party was a mixture of first-class with intermediate alpinists; some members took their wives along. We were Bruno and Ruth Boiler, Fréderic a...
McKinley, Foraker, Hunter, Rooster Comb, P 11,300. An expedition of the French Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne was led by Lieutenant Colonel Jean-Claude Marmier. They made an amazing number of climbs. The description of the Hunter climb is give...
Kalanka, Southeast Face. Allen Fyffe and I, ably assisted by our liaison officer, Mandip Singh Soin, established our Base Camp at the junction of the Changabang and Uttar Rishi glaciers on September 20 and Advanced Base on the Changabang Glacier...
Shadow Peak, North Face, Western Section. This route, climbed on July 12 by Ted Wilson and Rick Reese, diagonals across the north face from lower left to upper right starting from the same snow tongue as the old (1950) north face route. After star...
“Gatekeeper Wall ” Locksmith Dihedral. Dave Jones, Chris Rowins, and I established the Locksmith Dihedral (IV 5.11d Cl) on the “Gatekeeper Wall.” This wall, the first formation east of the Watchman, was named by Dave, who spotted the line. In Apri...