THE vertical rock and steep ice of 21,658-foot Payu (less correctly written Paiju) was the target of the first all-Pakistani expedition, organized by the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The peak, which rises from just below the tongue of the Baltoro Glac...
Makalu Attempt. Accompanying us were Georges Narbaud and Erich Beaud. We established Base Camp on April 12 on the Chago Glacier at the foot of the west face of Makalu. Our route was to the Makalu La and up the northwest face, the normal route. Fro...
STRANDED–OFF ROUTE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Fairview DomeOn July 27, Randy Popkin (46) and his son, Cameron (16), climbed the Regular Route on Fairview Dome. They got to the base...
Mt. Trinidad, Eides of March, Ascent, and Exploration. Cochamo is part of the Chilean Lake District, or Northern Patagonia, and lies two hours inland from Puerto Montt in central Chile. The climbing area was first discovered by Crispin Waddy after...
CARBON MONOXIDE, FAILURE TO VENTILATE TENT, WEATHER, FATIGUE Alaska, Mount McKinleyA party of six climbers from Switzerland departed for their ascent of Mount McKinley on May 29,1986. Four members planned to climb the West Buttress while the other...
Lhotse South Face Attempt. An International expedition to the still unclimbed south face of Lhotse was led by Krzysztof Wielicki. The climbing team had eight Poles, two South Tiroleans, one Briton and two Mexicans, some of whom joined the expediti...
The West Face of Latok IIEl Cap on top of Denaliby Alexander and Thomas HuberAlexanderAugust 13, 1995: The four of us sit at 6600 meters on a tower on the northwest ridge of Latok 11. A difficult decision must he made. For three days, we have been...
Gronau Nunatakker Range, first ascents. On July 4 British climbers, Owain Jones, Euan Lawson, Stephen Phillips and John Starbuck, British/American, Will Cross, and myself flew from Reykjavik, Iceland to Constable Point, before continuing on to Gro...
Jindrich Mandat and I came to Tasermiut mainly to repeat existing routes. It was only after we had picked the areas most famous jewels that we began contemplating a moderate first ascent. We decided on the east-northeast face of Half Dome, which i...
RAY DAVID DYKEMAN1932-1996I first met Dave Dykeman after being invited to join a group of friends who were climbing Tehipite Dome in the High Sierra over the Fourth of July weekend of 1983. That was a very heavy snow year, and I was astounded by h...
STRANDED–BENIGHTED, EXPOSURE–INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, LATE STARTCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Royal ArchesMy son Sascha (21) and I (54) climbed the Royal Arches (5.7) route in Yosemite Valley on April 10. The weather forec...
Success on KangchenjungaEDITORIALTHE ascent of Kangchenjunga last year by the party led by Charles Evans deserves a good deal more acclaim than seems to have been accorded it. In several respects it was a greater mountaineering achievement than th...
Traverse along Alaskan-British Columbian Border from the Stikine to the Samotua. On May 7, fingers were crossed that Craig Hollinger and our ski-plane pilot, Ron Janzen of TelAir, would complete the food placements and meet Markus Kellerhals, Stev...
Mount Stuart, East Face. Even more jagged, glaciated and spectacular than the famous north face of Mount Stuart is the cirque of the Ice Cliff Glacier and its headwalls on the east and northeast face of the peak. The entire glacier has been climbe...
Northern Selkirks. The Harvard Mountaineering Club 1957 Camp was held during the first three weeks of August in the Edfalls, Adamant, and Sir Sandford groups in the northern Selkirks. Access was by way of Swan Creek. With the assistance of airdrop...
IN the decade since Al DeMaria’s pioneering visit to Alaska’s Cathedral Spires, the range has gained a reputation for towering granite peaks, claustrophobic glaciers, and abominable weather. Until 975, the relatively small number of people who d...
In the Land of the InuitNew routes and perceptions in Sam Ford Fjordby Mark SynnottFor the past eight hours I had been tinkering with a thin cal- cite seam, using hooks, copperheads and rivets to create passage to the next real crack. The equivale...
Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up. On February 12 and 14,I climbed two new ice lines on Kjerag in southwest Norway. Kjerag is close to 1,000m high and rises directly from the Lysefjord. It is Norway’s number one big wall, for rock climbers and BASE ju...
1951-85USA1959-85CAN.1986USA1986CAN.TerrainRock 222828115015Snow 13692323811Ice 1034355River 12300Unknown 16620Ascent or DescentAscent 192528615421Descent 13791994710Unknown 2274110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock 13991381179Slip on snow o...
Tien Shan Mountains, mapping expedition. In August and September, 13 of us, mostly students from Dresden University of Technology, conducted a mapping expedition to the central Tien Shan Mountains. The objective of this university project (the Ins...