Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Weather Nevada, Red Rock, Pine Creek Canyon, Cat in the Hat

On April 5, a young woman (early 20s, I think) fell about 20 feet (though no one knows for sure because there were no witnesses) while being lowered by her husband off the first pitch of Cat in the Hat (6 pitches, 5.6). She sustained a head...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock - Pulled Rock Off, Failed to Inspect Top of Boulder Problem Colorado, Boulder, Flagstaff Mountain

During the early afternoon on May 3, calls for help were reported near Realization Point on Flagstaff Mountain. Rocky Mountain Rescue Group (RMRG), AMR Ambulance, City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks, Boulder City Fire Department, and ...

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| Published 2012


Climbs And Expeditions ANAM
Fall on Snow – Ski Mountaineering Descent, Exceeding Abilities Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley, West Rib, Orient Express Couloir

Ilkka Uusitalo (36) and the three other members of expedition “L10 at Denali 2012” left the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress route to ascend and then ski down the couloir by the upper West Rib on May 22. Due to deteriorating weather, the grou...

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| Published 2012 | Author Coley Gentzel


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches

On May 23 an experienced climber (male, 23) fell while rappelling. He self- rescued and reported the accident when he came to the medical clinic. This is what he wrote on our form: “Rapped off ends of rope on RA descent attempting to clip last ...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Route

On June 12, Mark Cartier (56), a highly experienced climber, succumbed after falling approximately 1,000 feet while soloing a South Side route variation. Climbing conditions were considered excellent. Cartier suffered massive head trauma an...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Failed to Clip to Anchor California, Yosemite Valley, Super Slide

On March 24 a man (27) and a woman (26) were rappelling to the base of Super Slide (5.9) at the Royal Arches area. Apparently they wound up between two of the regular rappel anchors. The man built a temporary anchor for the woman to clip into w...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock Colorado, Boulder, First Flatiron

On July 10 an inexperienced climber seconding the First Flatiron injured his ankle while being belayed and could not move. The leader did not have sufficient equipment to effect self-rescue. Rescuers climbed to both the injured climber and bela...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Further Notes from Mt. Shasta California, Mt. Shasta

Mt. Shasta had what most would say was a pretty “normal” season. The spring climbing season was very good, in the way of amazing corn skiing and firm, smooth climbing conditions that lasted into June. Climber numbers were average, with a total ...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow - Ice Axe and Helmet in Pack Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Ride

This fatal accident on February 6 was not witnessed, so many details remain unknown. Jared Townsley (31) was reported overdue from a solo climb on the South Side Route. He was last seen by other climbers descending near Crater Rock. A search t...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Mckinley, West Buttress

Steffen Machulka (49) was a member of the three-person German climbing team “Die Bahner.” On May 18 the team was on the eighth day of the expedition and was moving from the 14,200-foot camp to the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress. The tea...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inadequate Protection Montana, Gallatin Canyon, Gallatin Tower

On September 18, Jacob van Almelo (25) was climbing the route Tigger (5.10a/b) when he fell at the crux move. His 30-foot fall resulted in several injuries. His belayer did not catch the fall, but protection pulling out may also h...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Communication Device Problem California, Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Wintun Ridge

On August 29 I received a call from Siskiyou County SAR, Celeste Fowler, stating that a SPOT device had been set off on the northeast side of the mountain, near the 10,000-foot level on the Hotlum-Wintun route. The signal came from a commercial...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Party Separated Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Route

On February 5, while ascending the South Side Route, Meg Coker (35) lost her footing at about 10,500-foot elevation. She was unable to self-arrest and slid about 200 feet. She suffered multiple rib fractures and a collapsed lung. Nearby teams (...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Untied from Rope, Lack of Communication Colorado, Boulder, Second Flatiron

Late in the day on January 15, a male lead climber was attempting to climb the Second Flatiron, a low 5th-class climb with many possible variations. The leader climbed a full rope length and could not find an adequate anchor. He untied from the...

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| Published 2012 | Author Daniel Lack


Accident Reports ANAM
Party Separated, Lost, Unfamiliar with Terrain, Exhaustion California, Mt. Shasta Wilderness, Avalanche Gulch

On June 16 a middle-aged climber with novice mountaineering skills, Chinyet Lin, was reported missing after an attempted one-day climb up the Avalanche Gulch route. Lin was part of a “meet up” group off the Internet. The party was high on the m...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error - Fall on Ice Colorado, Estes Park, Big Thompson Canyon

On February 18 a female ice climber (49) fell while rappelling during a guided ice climb with her husband and daughter. She was approximately 20 to 30 feet above the ground when she slipped and swung sideways into a protruding ice formation. S...

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| Published 2012 | Author Aram Attarian


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Rappel Anchor Failure Alaska, Denali National Park, Mooses Tooth

On April 20 a party of three Japanese climbers set up a rappel on the route Shaken Not Stirred on the Mooses Tooth. The rappel anchor was a sling around a horn of rock. This anchor failed, resulting in one member of the team, Yudai Sato (24), ...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Failure to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment - No Crampons California, Mt. Shasta Wilderness, Avalanche Gulch

On April 21 a man (22) attempted to glissade down Avalanche Gulch below Redbanks. As the snow was too firm, he lost control and slid for 1,500 feet. He suffered abrasions and cuts. Rangers spoke to the man over the phone and met with him on...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Followed by Cardiac Arrest Colorado, Telluride, Bridal Veil Falls

Midday on January 15, Jack Roberts (58), a renowned ice climber and alpinist, died on the 400-foot Bridal Veil Falls (WI5). Jack was leading the second pitch, a long, steep pillar on the right side of the falls, when he fell 60 feet, breaking h...

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| Published 2012


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Faulty Use of Crampons--Failed to Put Them On Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Route

On February 4, while ascending the South Side Route, Andy Kim (age unknown) stopped at the 9,500-foot elevation to put on his crampons. As he was leveling a platform for the transition, he slipped and slid about 500 feet. He lost his ice axe wh...

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| Published 2012