Jagdula (5,764m) and unnamed peaks 5,783m and 5,750m

Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal
Author: Francois Damilano. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

After having climbed Strate Himal on April 28 with Jean-René Talopp, (see report above), I set out for a solo climb. Leaving base camp (4,021m) on the 30th, I walked up the lateral moraine of the Chaudhabise Glacier and then east to reach the bottom of the southwest face of Jagdula, a total of 7km. I then climbed this steep snow and ice face, with a tricky exit onto the summit ridge due to large cornices. From the summit I traversed the crest northwest to two more virgin summits (5,783m and 5,750m), before descending west down a beautiful unnamed glacier to rejoin the moraine, and so back to base camp, which I reached 22 hours after leaving. The overall grade was TD. I took only two bottles of water, some energy bars, and a 60m rope for rappelling and self-belaying.

Francois Damilano, France



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