Summary, various routes. It’s likely that more meters of new routes were opened in the 2012–13 climbing season than any other in Cochamó’s history. In addition to the reports that follow, three other difficult routes were established. Chan...
I had been eyeing a line on the southwest face of Cerro Meliquina (2,602m) since my 2011 trip to the peak and successful ascent of the northeast face [AAJ 2012]. In 2012, I was fortunate enough to revisit the mountain, which is located i...
With the political situation sensitive and uncertain in East Tibet, my preferred field of research, I organized a survey team from the Hengduan Mountain Club to visit the West Sichuan Highlands from late September to late October. While ther...
In September, Garrett Bradley, Andrew Hedesh, Aleksandra (Ola) Przybysz, Torsten Treufeld, Li Yuanliang, and I traveled to Keketuohai (local name Koktokay), where we established 30 new routes, most between two and five pitches, but some as long as...
Yan Dongdong, one of China’s leading alpinists, died in July in a crevasse fall while descending from a peak in the Tien Shan. Dongdong’s accident occurred while doing what he loved the most, namely putting up a technical route on a complete...
On July 9 the internationally recognized Chinese alpinist Yan Dongdong was killed in a crevasse fall in the Central Tien Shan. Yan planned to make the first ascent of Chulebos (6,769m), the highest point of a 25-kilometer unbroken crest immedia...
Young Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, who received a 2012 Piolet d’Or for their fast and minimalist first ascent of the west face of K7 West, made the second ascent of Janak via a new route up the 1,400m west face. It took them only...
From May 5-7, 2011, during an acclimatization phase as members of a mostly Slovenian expedition attempting Makalu, Steve House and Marko Prezelj traversed the entire Chago ridge from Peak 6,170m to the col before Makalu II’s northwest ridge....
Post-monsoon in Nepal was frustrating, to say the least, with five weeks of the most stable weather that Nick Bullock and I have ever experienced. However, we got completely shut down on a direct line up the unclimbed north face of Chamlan...
In October Jack Geldard and I made an unsuccessful attempt on the north face of Peak 41, a steep snow, ice, and mixed wall that had never been tried before. We shared base camp (4,800m) in the Hongu Valley with Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman...
While there is no suggestion that the following routes are new, they are previously unrecorded, and took place during the past decade. Bare details are published here to assist future climbers: On Chumbi (6,859m, just south of the Tibet...
In October 2011 Chamonix guides Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, and Jérôme Para made a spirited attempt on the south pillar, reaching the crest by a previously unclimbed line. The three acclimatized with a three-day ascent of Mera Peak, sleeping...
In November Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani, and Hiroyoshi Manome made the long-awaited first ascent of the south pillar of Kyashar (a.k.a. Peak 43). After establishing base camp in the village of Tangnag (ca 4,300m, and only a couple of h...
Chris Wright and I read about the Lunag Massif in a feature article by Joe Puryear in AAJ 2010. Thanks to his and David Gottlieb’s photographs, we found several exciting possibilities: Our objectives would be Little Lunag (6,492m), Lunag I...
In November, Tino Villanueva and I (USA) spent the month making seven first ascents in Rolwaling. Five of these were water ice and mixed climbs above the main Rolwaling and Yalung valleys. We also repeated several previously established ice ...
On October 23 Sergey Bublik and Mykola (Nicolay) Shymko made the first ascent of Simnang Himal via an alpine-style climb directly up the steep and difficult south-southeast face. Simnang Himal, formerly referred to as P2, lies immediately so...
Himjung (7,092m). Koreans Ahn Chi-young and Kim Chang-ho made the first ascent, via the southwest face, of one of the few remaining unclimbed 7,000ers in Nepal for which it is possible to obtain a permit. There is no known previous attempt. Aft...
` The high and remote massif of Churen Himal has three summits: Churen Himal West, Central, and East. All are given the same height. In October an Italian expedition climbed the right side of the southwest face of Churen Himal West to reach...
In September we made a four-day trip to Soming Valley in the central Gissar Range, just south of Iskanderkul Lake. According to the Tajik Federation of Mountaineering (FAT), all peaks west of the Belaya Pyramida–Hodzhalakan area are still virg...
Today there are at least 17 unique routes to the summit of Korzhenevskaya. Fourteen of them start from the Moskvin Glacier, two from the Mushketov Glacier, and only one from the Fortambek Glacier. The latter, the northwest ridge, is the rout...