In August, Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills redpointed the first 5.14 route on the Diamond on Longs Peak (14,259’), free-climbing the complete Dunn-Westbay (1972). After a number of days of work, Caldwell led the route free on August 21 in four rope-stretching pitches, and Mills followed all of the pitches free. The four pitches, all above 13,000’, were climbed ledge to ledge without hanging belays, and went at 5.10+, 5.14a (80m), 5.13a (70m), and 5.12b. The duo did not place any bolts. In 2011, Josh Wharton free-climbed the Dunn-Westbay at 5.13b but with substantial variations to the original route.

A number of notable mixed climbs were established during 2012-’13. In the winter of 2012, Josh Wharton climbed Two Dragons (400’, III M7), on the northeast face of Dragontail Spire (ca 12,000’). The route begins on Dragon Slayer (III 5.11) and then takes a variation up and right for two pitches before joining the towers’ south ridge. (Wharton did not climb to the summit.) In March 2013, Erik Rieger and Jonathan Merritt climbed a new route on the southeast face of Flattop Mountain (12,324’). Steep is Flat (500’, III M5/6) ascends a previously climbed couloir and then tackles four pitches up a prominent corner and chimney system on the upper mountain. In April 2013, Wharton and Jesse Huey completed the Production (IV M7) on the south face of Otis Peak (12,486’), following the first part of Brain Freeze (IV M5+) before breaking up and left on a steep wall for three sustained pitches. Also in April, talented mixed climbers Aaron Montgomery and Ryan Vachon climbed a new route on the southwest face of Sharkstooth, tackling a large, tiered roof system. They called their route Circling Sharks (III M8+).

In October 2013, Kevin Cooper and Topher Donahue made what is believed to be the first ascent of an ephemeral and spectacular ice smear high on the east face of Longs Peak: Window Pain (WI5+/WI6). This single, long pitch is particularly significant given the difficult “approach”—for Cooper and Donahue, and repeat ascents, this required first hiking five miles, then climbing Field’s Chimney (III WI5 M6), crossing Broadway, and, finally climbing a majority of the Window (IV WI4 M4), all before reaching the climb. Cooper and Donahue and subsequent parties rappelled from atop the smear.