On October 11, Erik Harz, Felix Parham, and I reached the top of what we believe to be a previously unclimbed peak in the Changping Valley. Joey Shan, named for the incredible spirit of our friend Joey Hernandez, a Californian climber who passed a...
In October a team including Andrew Hedesh, Sylvain Millet, Claire Thomas, Thomas Vialletet, Zhuo Lei, and I visited the Jarjinjabo Massif, north of the Zhopu pastures. We climbed a number of new routes, including but not limited to, those describe...
From July 27 to August 25, Vincent van Beek, Vincent Perrin, Bas van der Ploeg, Bas and Saskia van der Smeede, and I visited the western sector of the Western Kokshaal-too. Following the usual approach through Kyrgyzstan, we reached the unnamed gl...
In June, Saro Costa, Luca Vallata, and I (all from Italy) explored the southern part of the Cordillera Huayhuash, where we attempted four peaks and succeeded on one climb (though we didn’t reach the summit). We set up base camp close to Sarapococh...
“Slip on Snow.” The phrase seems innocuous enough. It certainly doesn’t sound like something that might lead to an injury or a fatality. But the reality of those three words in Accidents is quite different. If a slip or fall on snow appears in the...
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is well guarded and until 2009 repelled climbers’ attempts at access. Nor have I found evidence of research parties accessing the glacier, despite active programs involving landings in Johns Hopkins Inlet.The glacier beco...
Miandi Peak, correction.In AAJ 2008 we published a report from Pat Deavoll on the presumed first ascent of Peak 6,465m, a mountain she climbed from the west and later named Miandi Peak, as it sits above Miandi (or Maiandi) Bamak (Glacier). Howe...
Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt.At the end of August, Marko Lukic, Silvo Karo, and I traveled to Gangotri, hoping to climb the infamous and still virgin Shark’s Fin on Meru Central. This line has already repulsed m...
In November 2013, Christian Quezada, Ricardo Hernandez, Ulises Espinosa, and I (all members of the Grupo de Alta Montaña de los Perros Alpinos), traveled to the University and Cortaderal glaciers, which are located south of Santiago and comprise t...
Paul Gagner and I climbed a long, stepped ridge on the southeast aspect of Shoshoni Peak (12,967') on July 19. This ridge defines the left side of the big gash on Shoshoni’s south face. We climbed six pitches (5.9-), plus a long section of scrambl...
Grand Singatook, North Face. Otherwise known as “3870” to locals, this great hump rises out of Woolley Lagoon, receiving the brunt of Bering Sea weather. From the Teller Road one imagines that Singatook might have a worthy north face around the ba...
As a 16-year-old climber in 1978, with my long hair, swami belt, and patchy EBs, I stood on the damp little ledge at the base of Mazinaw Rock, Ontario, and looked up at the Joke, a beetling 100-meter wall decorated with a couple of bent and rusted...
Early June of 2013 was warm and beautiful in northern Norway. Before summer even began, I was lucky to complete my long-term project, a free ascent of Ikaros on the north face of Store Blamannen, our local big wall. I say lucky because the ascent ...
On June 19, Gregg Beisly, Robert Rauch, and I climbed what we believe to be a new route in the Zongo Pass area. Although I’m not sure the feature we climbed has a real name, we have started calling it Pico Triangular, due to its obvious shape as v...
From July 27 to August 5 Eugeniy Bashkirtsev and Denis Veretenin, from Irkutsk in Siberia, made the second ascent of the Odessa route (1,700m, 6A/6B, A4, Cheban-Lavrinenko-Mogila-Tsushko, 2006) on the right side of the north face of Rocky Ak-su...
On August 23 our team reached base camp at 4,400m below Eagle Rock, the south summit of Potala Shan (a.k.a. Putala Peak). Eagle Rock lies above the valley of Shuangqiao, and was believed to have been climbed only once, by a three-man Swiss team, v...
Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m), southwest face, Invisible Hand and Invisible Hand Sit Start; Peak 5,180m, west face, Speed Indeed. Although from Rio de Janeiro, I've been living in China for the last six years, doing my best to develop various aspects of ...
On September 15 a multi-national expedition completed the first ascent of Dayantianwo, above the Shuangqiao Valley. This granite pyramid lies south-southeast of Baihaizi Lake and is the first summit southwest of Peak 5,180m. Chaohui Zheng of China...
The Daogou peaks (East, 5,466m; West, 5,422m) are steep, rocky mountains, the eastern flanks of which are accessed from the upper Changping Valley. The name comes from their location. Head north and then northwest into the upper Changping, then tu...
South of Potala Shan, above the Shuangqiao Valley, the Central Tower lies between Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m) to the west and Warglesei (ca 5,300m) to the east. As these three peaks form a cirque around the head of a hanging valley containing Baihaizi ...