Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out - No Helmet, Exceeding Abilities

New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, Barber Wall, Nutcracker
Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

On August 10 a climber in his mid to late 20s was leading Nutcracker (5.10a) on the Barber Wall. He fell and at least one of his pieces pulled, causing him to flip backward. He hit his head before falling to the ground. He was not wearing a helmet.

The Mountain Rescue Service mobilized, and after more than two hours of effort got him to the top, a little before dark. This required a litter carry along the traverse ledge, followed by a carry up the gully. At the top a waiting ambulance transported him to the local hospital.

Analysis

While often rated 5.9, this route is really 5.10a! It is a sustained crack climb requiring a variety of thin to moderate protection pieces. With modern cams it is possible to place good protection almost anywhere along the route. The climber’s fall could have been mitigated if he had more experience placing gear. (Source: Al Hospers, Mountain Rescue Service.)