Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Lucifer, North Face, Agua Sin Gas Alaska, Coast Mountains

In the AAJ 1947, Fred Beckey wrote, “Although they do not rise so high as the great mountains farther to the N.W., these peaks of the Alaska-Canada Boundary are magnificent in their alpine grandeur and challenging in their technical difficulties...

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| Published 2015 | Author John Frieh


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dragontail Peak, North Face, Left Hand Freeze Washington, North Cascades

Over the weekend of April 25–26, Craig Pope and I teamed up to attempt a new route on Dragontail Peak in the Enchantments—Craig’s idea. He had started up a variation of what we would end up climbing the weekend prior and was eager to see it throug...

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| Published 2015 | Author Kirsten Gardner


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Poor Position, No Helmet Colorado, Summit County, White Cliff

On June 7 a woman (29) suffered a serious head injury while leading a 5.9 sport route. After clipping the first quickdraw (previously placed by her belayer, age 26), the climber slipped before clipping the second draw, causing her to fall. The bel...

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| Published 2015 | Author Summit County Rescue Group


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall Arizona, Kaibab National Forest, Sycamore Falls

On June 25, a Boy Scout group was climbing and rappelling at Sycamore Falls (a.k.a. Paradise Forks). At approximately 11:30 in the morning, the first rappeller (age 56) was struck in the left knee and foot by a falling rock when he was approximate...

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| Published 2015 | Author Aaron Dick


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Belay Colorado, Boulder

After 29 years of accident-free climbing, I thought I was a pretty competent belayer. Turns out I still had plenty to learn. Luckily I’m still accident-free, but things easily could have ended very badly.This happened when I was lowering my friend...

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| Published 2014 | Author Martin le Roux


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Climbing Unroped Alaska, Chugach State Park, Mt. Yukla

On Sunday, January 18, 24-year-old Dasan Marshall fell to his death on the north face of 7,535-foot Mt. Yukla in Chugach State Park. He was attempting a variation of the route No Call, No Show with his climbing partner, 23-year-old Nikolai Windahl...

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| Published 2015 | Author Eeva Latosuo and Nikolai Windahl


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Windy Peak, North Face, Dream Within a Dream Nevada, Red Rock Canyon

In April, Larry DeAngelo, Chad Mueler, Bill Thiry, and I climbed a new route on the north face of Windy Peak. Windy Peak is located about two and half hours from the Black Velvet Canyon trailhead. Our route followed a very obvious wide crack in th...

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| Published 2015 | Author Sam Taggart


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ames Wall, Belly of the Beast Colorado, San Juan Mountains

In December 2014, Gary Newmeyer and I made two attempts on the major chimney system right of the Ames Ice Hose on the Ames Wall. We were shut down both times on the third pitch due to smooth rock, little protection, and a large chockstone. We made...

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| Published 2015 | Author Nik Mirhashemi


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 11,300’, West Face, Right Couloir; Reality Peak, West Face, Devil’s Advocate Alaska, Central Alaska Range

Willis Brown, Sam Hennessey, and I climbed two sustained ice and mixed routes in the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier between May 11 and 21. From May 13–14 we tried to climb the longest and most direct line available on the west face of Peak 11,300’...

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| Published 2015 | Author Seth Timpano


Club Activities AAJ
Mid-Atlantic Section

This year we organized regular social events, including the Reel Rock Film Tour, Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour, and Send & Socials. Our joint section events—the Delaware Water Gap Multi-Pitch Summer Sufferfest, the New River Gorge Cr...

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| Published 2014 | Author Barry Rusnock, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Metro New York Section

Despite the heavy involvement of the Metro NY Section in preparations for the AAC’s Annual Benefit Dinner in Manhattan in January 2015, the section maintained an active series of outdoor and indoor events throughout the year. Once again we journey...

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| Published 2014 | Author Philip Erard, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
New England Section

In February our section helped the International Mountain Climbing School sponsor the 21st annual Ice Fest in North Conway, New Hampshire. The Theatre in the Woods hosted Friday night’s event, where the AAC had a membership table along with a sile...

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| Published 2014 | Author Nancy Savickas, Co-Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Midwest Section

For the third straight year the AAC was proudly represented at the Reel Rock Film Tour at the University of Illinois’ Chicago campus. A big thank you to Bob Swartz, who manned our information table as close to 200 climbers and outdoor enthusiasts ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Ray Kopcinski, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Great Lakes Section

Once again the Great Lakes Section hosted two major events in 2014. The section continues to grow, due in large part to these events. The 2014 Michigan Ice Fest brought 411 participants to Munising for another year of excellent ice conditions at P...

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| Published 2014 | Author Bill Thompson, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Front Range Section

In February the Front Range Section hosted a large Friday-night gathering at the new Earth Treks gym in Golden, before the AAC Annual Benefit Dinner. Five hundred AAC and Earth Treks members showed up for the event, which included free climbing, b...

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| Published 2014 | Author Carol Kotchek, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Western Slope Section

The year started with the 19th annual Ouray Ice Festival, which, as usual, was well attended. The evening programs were very popular, especially the Ueli Steck show on Thursday, where people had to be turned away. We also spent time at the festiva...

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| Published 2014 | Author Lee Jenkins, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
North Central Section

Our section continues to grow and build local support. This past year we teamed up with the Black Hills Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund to build and redevelop some major climbers’ trails in Custer State Park. We also teamed up with the Blac...

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| Published 2014 | Author Mark Jobman, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
New Mexico Section

In September, New Mexico State University teamed with our section, Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition, Organ Mountains Technical Rescue Squad, Mesilla Valley Bosque State Park, Southwest Environmental Center, Southern New Mexico Trail Alliance, and...

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| Published 2014 | Author Pat Gioannini, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Idaho Section

In 2014 the Idaho Section enjoyed consistent participation of its members and persistent engagement with non-members in the mountaineering and outdoor communities—a concrete step toward further strengthening ties with the community in 2015.In Apri...

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| Published 2015 | Author Kammie Cuneo & Jason Luthy, Co-Chairs


Club Activities AAJ
Southwest Section

As in the last several years, the Southwest Section had four principal events in 2014: a climbing/restoration weekend in Joshua Tree National Park in March; a stewardship day at Idyllwild in June as part of the fourth annual Idyllwild Climbers Fes...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jim Pinter-Lucke, Co-Chair