On August 14 two climbers set out from Lake O’Hara to climb the Grassi Ridge on Wiwaxy Peak. Late in the afternoon, light rain began falling, which made the quartzite very slippery and slowed their progress. As they were approaching the final pitch, the leader passed a small pillar that collapsed, sending several large blocks down the climb. The belayer was struck on the thigh with considerable force, causing injuries that prevented him from moving. Their ropes were badly damaged. The leader was able to rappel down on the better of the two ropes and attend to the belayer. The leader called for help using a SPOT satellite communicator and also radioed down to friends at the Lake O’Hara Lodge. 

At 8:40 p.m., Visitor Safety staff was notified about the incident. Due to the poor weather and limited daylight, the Visitor Safety team was unable to reach the injured climber that evening. After looking at the weather forecast and communicating with the climbers through the Lake O’Hara lodge, they decided a rescue attempt would be made at first light. The climbers were able to find some shelter under a boulder and wait. Early the next morning the two climbers were slung out by helicopter to a waiting ambulance, where they were treated for mild hypothermia and the injury to the thigh.

ANALYSIS 

Falling rock is always a concern on longer rock and alpine routes. Whenever possible, try to place protection to keep the rope from running over loose rock, and seek out sheltered belays to minimize the chances of injury from rockfall. 

This case highlights the fact that a rescue can be significantly delayed due to the time of day, as well as weather and route conditions. Having some spare clothing (gloves, hat, jacket) and a light emergency tarp can make a significant difference to a stranded team. This party’s ability to communicate effectively with people on the ground was a real bonus, allowing them to convey their location and condition, and allowing rescuers to let them know when to expect a rescue and to monitor their condition through the night.