There would be no sleeping. The wind moaned a slow, agonizing cry among the summits and the lenticular clouds. My partner, Tad McCrea, was also awake, and we just lay in our base camp tent, listening in silent fear. Despite our snow walls, the win...
This expedition had its beginnings in 2013, when I completed a 21-day snowboarding and climbing trip in the Tordrillo Mountains. During an initial recon flight and subsequent ground travel in this range, I became increasingly aware of its alpine r...
On July 6—coincidentally our second wedding anniversary—we departed Seattle to fulfill a long-sought dream of climbing in the remote Arrigetch Peaks. Two days later, Brooks Range Aviation set us down at Circle Lake under a heavy gale, with 230 pou...
On October 14, Steffen Krug and I returned to the beautiful limestone area of Taghia Gorge. The year before, we were very unlucky and got stuck in extremely bad weather for three weeks, with heavy rain, snow, and even ice—very unusual in this area...
On October 25 a climber (female, 28) took a short leader fall near the top of Mint Jam (5.8) at the Overlook. All the gear held, and the belayer acted correctly. As is the case for many climbs at the Overlook, the leader was in a dangerous place t...
On May 17, Pacifico Machaca and I climbed a 200m, six-pitch route on the south face of the most prominent granite buttress of the Khala Cruz group (west of the 5,200m highest summit). We believe this is the same buttress mentioned in AAJ 1982, as ...
Fu-Man-Chu on the tallest granite tower of the north ridge of Jati Khollu. On August 30, Juan Gabriel Estellano (Bolivian), Lilén Sosa (Argentinian), and I established a new route on the tallest granite tower of the no...
On May 29, Pacifico Machaca (Bolivia) and I climbed what we think is a new line on the southwest face of the Pico Milluni ridgeline. After a two-hour approach, which at the end involved crossing a nasty boulderfield and then heading up a 50° snow ...
On October 6, José Callisaya (Bolivian), Robert Rauch (German, resident in La Paz), and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Serkhe Khollu (5,546m). Reaching the foot of this wall required one and a half hour's drive from La Paz, an easy...
The prolific alpinist Tunç Fındık has climbed many new routes in Turkey’s mountains in recent years. In 2015 he completed about a dozen long new routes, with various partners, ranging from 100m to 600m. These are found mostly in the Ala Dağlar mou...
Leon Russell “Pete” Sinclair was born on August 25, 1935, in Boston and passed away due to complications of Alzheimer’s disease in Olympia, Washington, on November 28, 2015. He is survived by Connie, his wife of 52 years, daughters Melanie and Sum...
On July 4, 2014, almost two months before a Singapore University team made the first ascent of Mt. SUTD (6,056m, AAJ 2015), a small expedition from the Japanese Alpine Club made the first ascent of nearby Pyagski (6,090m). This peak lies on the ea...
In August an expedition from Pakistan attempted to climb Toshe Ri (6,424m, a.k.a. Toshain I, Sarwali, or Dabbar) from the south. There is no confirmed ascent of this peak. Ascents reported in 1974 and '75 were almost certainly of Toshe V (6,132m),...
Having rock climbed for about six years, I was eager to try something new, namely ice climbing. A few friends had rented out a house for the weekend in the Adirondacks, so I decided to join them. Many of them were already experienced in ice climbi...
Jed Williamson (left) and Peter Lev in the Tetons. Williamson is wearing the helmet he loaned to a client on the day he got hit bya rock on the Grand Teton. In the late 1990s, I was guiding on the Grand Teton, and my ...
At 2:30 a.m., November 25, Pacifico Machaca and I left my car at La Rinconada (4,400m) and hiked past Chiar Khota base camp to reach the foot of the south face of Ala Izquierda. We simul-climbed the initial 50–60° snow/ice slope, starting at the s...
On July 15, Juvenal and Sergio Condori left Condoriri base camp at 3 a.m., and after ascending the glacier toward Pequeño Alpamayo, they crossed the watershed between Pico Tarija and Wyoming (a.k.a. Huallomen), descended the far side, and traverse...
Imagine sailing to Yosemite, amid an array of glaciers, with the ocean lapping the base of rocky slopes. Enzo Oddo and I had arrived at Renland aboard Isobelle Autissier’s yacht Ada II, and before our eyes lay more virgin rock faces than we coul...
On September 29, Gregg Beisly and I succeeded on one of the remaining unclimbed gullies on the south face of Pico Triangular (5,600m), topping out more or less at the summit. Our route was left of the 2011 Baker-Beisly line called Baked. We climbe...
In June, as usual, I traveled to Bolivia to team up with New Zealand expat Gregg Beisly, who has been based in the country for the last five years. On June 2 we acclimatized by making the first recorded ascent of Pico 5,540m (Bolivian IGM 5946 III...