Fall on Rock – Failure to Clip Anchors

West Virginia, New River Gorge National River, Sandstonia
Author: NPS Incident Report. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

At 3 p.m. on November 6, a male climber (age unknown) fell while leading a sport route named Shady Lady (5.7) at the Sandstonia area of Bubba City. According to an NPS incident report, the climber was attempting to clip the anchors when he fell. Due to slack in the system, the climber fell approximately 15 to 20 feet before the belayer arrested the fall. The climber suffered injuries to his right buttocks and leg, in addition to facial injuries. (Source: NPS Incident Report.)

ANALYSIS

A combination of factors is likely the culprit for this long, painful fall, including fatigue and poor timing, with excessive slack pulled out to clip anchors. “Desperation” clips seldom work out well—either find a solid stance before pulling up slack or downclimb to the previous protection for a rest. (Source: The Editors.)