Juncal Tragedy. One of the foremost Peruvian climbers, Arturo Tordoya, American Carl Erickson and Canadian Bryan Jay Ball have been missing since they left to attempt Juncal. It is feared that they were buried by an avalanche, probably on January ...

Mt. Hunter, Wall of Shadows, free to third ice band; and Mt. Huntington, West Face Couloir. “It’s the best day of the season,” our pilot commented as Russ Mitrovich and I flew into the Alaska Range. It was May 12, and we were headed for the Tokosi...

Alexander Blok Peak, West Face. It was reported that a big team from Central Siberia that included A. Bekasov, V. Kokhanov, P. Kuznetsov, K. Obednin, S. Pushkarev and S. Sagan made a new route up the very impressive face of Alexander Blok Peak (52...

Aconcagua, South Face, a new route on the Southeast Buttress to 6000 Meters. To acclimatize Jean-Luc Bedouet, Jean-Marcel Dufour, Pierre Rave- neau, Dr. Bernard Vallet, Jean-Pierre Chassagne and his wife Francine from January 16 to 22 climbed to 5...

EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 18, 1984, the bodies of Sadatamo Keiso (35) and Kenji Yatuhashi (32), both of Hiroshima, were retrieved from 16 meters below the summit of El Capitan, where ...

Soviet Climbing in the Pamir Mountains and the Tien Shan, 1980. Despite generally bad weather in 1980 in the mountains of the USSR, a number of new big-wall climbs were made on the high peaks by Soviet climbers. The 9000-foot-high south face of Pi...

Rødebjerg, East Greenland. An expedition was in the Angmagssalik area from July 2 to August 1. The leader was Scot Jackie Gorden, accompanied by Scot Wendy Gudmundsson and Englishmen Graham Butler and Nigel Dyson. They flew by helicopter to the Hå...

Wyoming, G.T.N.P., Blacktail Butte. On 28 August William Clark (19), was belaying Douglas Boggie (27), both relatively inexperienced, while Boggie tried a difficult section of the practice cliff. According to Boggie, he was about 20 feet above the...

First Ascent of Open Door Pinnacle, Wyoming. South of Grand Teton National Park, about 25 miles from the town of Jackson on U.S. Highway 187, a gravel road turns northeast up Granite Canyon. Eventually the road leads to a small Forest Service recr...

Silver Star, West Peak, Northeast Ridge. The 1200-foot northeast ridge is a rock climber’s dream with solid, vertical granite spires and fins. Chris Delejska and I made its first ascent on May 9. We approached via the classic Silver Star Glacier r...

Morning Star Peak. This fine, rocky peak is one of the prominent summits of the Cascade skyline seen from Seattle. It was climbed in July for the first time by Monte Haun, Mark Haun, Dick Hill, and Kenn Carpenter. The approach was made by the Sult...

FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACKS, UNROPEDAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount NeptuakOn August 28, a party of seven set out on a club outing to traverse some of the ten peaks from west to east in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff National Park. They had ver...

Gasherbrum II. Our expedition was composed of Mike Collins, Dan Heilig, Rob Hess, Phil Powers and me. We climbed Gasherbrum II by the normal southwest ridge. We left Dassu on May 11, but a very bad storm on the ninth day of the approach trapped us...

Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, north face, Stegosaurus Spur (not to summit). In early July Paul Hersey (New Zealand), Yewjin Tan (Singapore/NZ), and I (U.S./NZ) arrived in the Jiptik Valley, 20km east of the famous Ak-su and Kara-su valleys. A New Zeal...

Bhrikuti Winter Attempt. Romolo Nottaris and three other Swiss attempted to make a winter ascent of Bhrikuti by the southwest ridge, but they were able to reach only 5500 meters on November 30.Elizabeth Hawley

Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles, by C. Douglas Milner. 176 pages with frontispiece in color. 70 illustrations by the author, 4 map diagrams, bibliography and index. London: Robert Hale, Ltd., 1955. Price 30 s.This is the first book in English dealing...

Grands Charmoz and Aguille Sans Nom, French Alps. On October 19 and 20, Mark Twight and Scott Backes climbed a very difficult new 10-pitch route on the west face of the Grands Charmoz. It was mostly ice and mixed climbing with one pitch of A2. On ...

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Sunday climbing at Devils Lake during the academic year continues to be the mainstay of our rock climbing activities, although occasional overnights, hikes, and an outing to the Mississippi Palisades were programed. ...

Chomolungma Sings the Blues: Travels Around Everest. Ed Douglas. Constable, England. 1997. 256 pages. $40.00.In Chomolungma Sings the Blues, Ed Douglas, editor of Climber, a U.K. magazine, and The (British) Alpine Journal, recounts his experiences...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONENevada, Red Rocks, Rainbow Wall – The Original RouteA climber, Josh, fell from the second pitch (140 feet) to the base of the climb. Three climbers were on the route. Two were climbing together, and the victim of the fa...