EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHER

California, Yosemite Valley

On October 18, 1984, the bodies of Sadatamo Keiso (35) and Kenji Yatuhashi (32), both of Hiroshima, were retrieved from 16 meters below the summit of El Capitan, where they had frozen to death in a storm reported as the worst in 19 years. Thirty- five centimeters of snow fell, and temperatures were — 12° C and below.

At the same time, Brian Bennett (26) and Norman Boles (25) were rescued from the Zodiac route, and Edwin Drummond (39), was rescued from the North American Wall, which he was attempting to solo. (Source: J. R. Tomasovic and Michael Mayer, Rangers, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

The Japanese climbers were experienced in their own country. Since being in Yosem- ite, they had done seven climbs, including the regular route on Half Dome and the East Buttress of El Capitan.

But Sadatomo and Yatsuhashi were underequipped for a storm. Photos from their camera show them at a bivy and covered by a lightweight tarp, probably at camp five or six. They had a stove and some warm and waterproof clothing, but not much, and it was of poor quality. This was probably the night of the 15th, before the storm, and since it didn’t start raining until midmorning the next day, they most likely made a run for the summit, only a few pitches away. Had they stayed put, they might have survived, but with marginal gear they were in bad shape by the time they reached the last pitch. On the topo this pitch shows a bolt ladder followed by a 5.7 low angle section leading to the top. Easy stuff, but not if the rock were icy and they had underestimated the speed with which the rain, snow and wind would sap their strength.

It looks like Yatsuhashi led the bolt ladder but collapsed at its end, after setting up a make-shift belay. Indicative of his decreased mental status, we found several illogical aspects to his rigging, the most blatant being that he was anchored to a single six millimeter bolt, half out of the rock, while literally in front of his face, 30 centimeters below the bolt, were two ten millimeter bolts connected by a chain.

I talked with Bennett and Boles, and we agreed that downclimbing may have been better than going up, but they may have been caught in the rain there, as well. Given the limitations of their bivouac equipment, and since they seemed to be sheltered under the Zorro Roofs, perhaps they should have bivouacked somewhere on pitch 11. They got into trouble very quickly once they were exposed to water on pitch 12, and starting their bivouac while dry would have been a distinct advantage.

Being higher was a distinct advantage for rescue. Had they required help while retreating, we might not have reached them on Wednesday, and they might have died.

Regardless of the best strategy, they were in serious trouble. A longer storm or less sheltered spot might have finished them off. The solution is to have equipment adequate for a storm: waterproof (not Goretex) rainsuits, bivouac sacks, hammocks, flys, etc., and plenty of wool, polypro, pile, and polarguard insulation, including sleeping bags. The solution to the one versus two haul bag problem may be a bigger haul bag, especially this time of year. Temperatures on El Cap in October range from – 7° to 33° C and cannot be predicted five days in advance. Cold can be expected from September to June.

Had Bennett and Boles checked the forecast on Saturday, they said they probably would not have committed themselves. (It called for rain on Tuesday, showers Wednesday, snow level 2300 meters.) Because of work and school commitments, they were under a tight schedule and wanted to get an early start that day.

The solo climber, Drummond, stated that he had started his climb on the North American Wall on October 4, and had been on the wall continuously since that time. He weathered a storm on the 8th, but it only stalled him for one day. Drummond was on the 23rd pitch when the storm hit. He remembers an exceptionally cold night on Monday, and that Tuesday morning it looked as if the storm might break. He spent all day Tuesday in his portaledge in a polarguard sleeping bag. The tent leaked, however, turning the portaledge into a “bathtub.” On Wednesday, between 1000 and 1100, the NPS started hailing him and he considered taking the offer of having warm, dry clothing lowered to him. However, he then realized that he was becoming hypothermic, and in the face of the oncoming storm should leave the mountain. He left all his equipment on the face and was evacuated around 1700 on Wednesday. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)