Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton

Wyoming, Grand Teton. On 6 July at 2130 hours, Gregory Sharp (23) and George Macheel reached the Owen rappel point after climbing the Grand Teton. According to Sharp, he had made the rappel after a previous ascent of the Grand and thought a 150 fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II Attempt

Annapurna II Attempt. Our expedition to the west ridge of Annapurna II was composed of Lucy Smith and me, co-leaders, Sue Giller, George Vansickle, Julie Brugger, John Trainor, Devin McGowan, Polly Fabian and Craig Seasholes. We met with many frus...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, P 20,308, Pangong Range, Ladakh

P 20,308, Pangong Range, Ladakh. This virgin peak was climbed on September 20 by six members of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police and two other policemen. The summiters were R.C. Anand, leader, Balbir Singh, Tashi Sherpa, Rabgyas, Dubi Ram, Tsering N...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club held its 15th Western Outing in Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park, Alberta, in July. Camp was located at Surprise Point on Amethyst Lake with 30 members in attendance. Given superb weather, several parties ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Weather, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Mount Warren

FALLING ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Wind River Range, Mount WarrenOn July 24, 1989, National Outdoor Leadership School leader Phil Peabody set out at 0620 with three students, David Black (24), Justin Burchett (16), and Rob Hirschfield (20), to attempt ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Protection Came Off, Shoulder Dislocation, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome

PROTECTION CAME OFF, SHOULDER DISLOCATION California, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn September 9, 1993, at 1700, I was dispatched to the SAR cache to work as the medic on a Half Dome SAR. Warner Braun, Pat Sullivan and I were flown to the base of Ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, The Cathedral Spires

The Minarets were the scene of a number of climbs effected by members of the search parties looking for Walter A. Starr, Jr., who lost his life in a solo attempt on Michael’s Minaret. Norman Clyde, who found the body, and Oliver Kehrlein made two ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Yanga Kangri, Attempt on a New Route

Yangra Kangri, attempt on a new route. The highest summit in the Ganesh Himal lies on the Nepal-Tibet border and is referred to as Yangra Kangri (in Tibet) or Ganesh I (in Nepal). The 7429m peak was climbed on October 24,1955 from the Nepalese sid...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Inadequate Anchor, Alberta, Bow Falls

RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE ANCHOR Alberta, Bow FallsOn Feb. 23 around noon, a party of three were starting the descent of this Grade III, WI4 route. F.B. lowered J.P. and D.P. from a three-screw anchor. F.B. then proceeded to rappel from a single Sim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Andes

Chilean Andes. The twelfth ascent of Aconcagua was made on January 31st, 1937, by Juan Schuckert. The second ascent of El Tronador, 3470 m., was made in January, 1937, by Otto Meiling. In September, 1937, H. Hess and R. Roth succeeded in making th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Singuchuli Attempt

Singuchuli Attempt. Slovenes Tadej Golob and Žiga Petric wanted to make an attempt on Hiunchuli, but because there was nearly no snow on the east face of Hiunchuli, they attempted the south face of Singuchuli (6501 meters, 21,329 feet). After a fi...


Feature Article AAJ
Arapiles, Australia

Arapiles, AustraliaAlison OsiusIT HAD BEEN a slow morning, rainy. Wolfgang was lecturing on training, Kurt singing, Didier smoking, me eating borrowed prescription anti-inflammatories.But now we were at the base of India, 29, which several years a...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountains of the Mind; Imperial Ascent: Mountaineering, Masculinity and Empire

Mountains of the Mind. Robert Macfarlane. New York: Pantheon Books, 2003.320 pages. Hardcover. $24.00Imperial Ascent: Mountaineering, Masculinity, and Empire. Peter L. Bayers. Boulder: University Press of Colorado, 2003.174 pages. Hardcover. $29.9...


Feature Article AAJ
Cho Oyu Contradictions, Escaping Harsh Realities on a Single-Push New Route in the Himalayas

Cho Oyu ContradictionsEscaping harsh realities on a single-push new route in the Himalaya.Pavle KozjekI first climbed in the Himalaya more than 20 years ago. In the early 1980s I was a member of large expeditions organized by the Slovenian Mountai...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Ascent

The Ascent. Jeff Long. William Morrow, New York, NY, 1992. 284 pages. $20.00. Jeff Long’s second novel describes an attempt on the north side of Everest. The route, the “Kore Wall,” is “an imaginary monster,” but it often feels very real indeed. O...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Johannesberg

Washington, Mt. Johannesberg—On August 30, Don Grimlund (24) and five companions, all experienced climbers, had reached the summit of Mt. Johannesberg. The approach had been from Cascade Pass by a circuit around Mixup via Gunsight Pass and a conto...


Accident Reports ANAM
Pulmonary Edema, Climbing Alone, Colorado, Longs Peak

PULMONARY EDEMA, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Longs PeakStephen Weiswell (20) arrived in Boulder, Colorado, from Massachusetts. He climbed for a number of days in the Boulder area (5000 to 6000 feet in elevation), then went directly to the Longs Peak A...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inexperience, Failure to Turn Back — Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

INEXPERIENCE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressMike McCarthy (32) faxed his Mount McKinley climbing registration form to the Talkeetna Ranger Station on March 16. His climbing experience consisted of three hikes up Long’s P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Panch Chuli II and Panch Chuli III, Attempt

Panch Chuli II and Panch Chuli III, Attempt. An expedition of the Explorers and Adventurers, Bombay, India, led by Divyesh Muni, attempted Panch Chuli II (6904 m) and Panch Chuli III (6312 m) in the Pyunshani Valley in the month of May. Divyesh Mu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summary of Activity

Washington, summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Previously unreported were two ascents of Poster Peak, by probable new routes, in the summer of 2003. Poster Peak is shown on ...