Mountaineers. The 1961 activities of the Seattle Mountaineers may be summarized as follows. The annual climbing course began February 15 with 222 basic and 39 intermediate students registered. Of these, 98 basic and 13 intermediate students gradua...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. On May 30 Alan and Adrian Burgess, Graham Drinkwater, Jon Jones, Randy Morse and I established Base Camp at 17,000 feet in the meadows of Tap Alpe. After reconnaissance, we established Advance Base at 14,000 feet ...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, West Face, and Fitz Roy, 1987. After the ascent of Cerro Torre from October 27 to 31, 1987 by Rosanna Manfrini and me, in which she made the first female ascent of the very difficult peak (AAJ, 1988, page 174), good weather re...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 29, 1985, Martin Cook reported to the rangers that his partner, Tammy Dziadek(21), had taken a leader fall on Kor’s Flake Route of Sundance Buttress.C...
La Esfinge, Via Gringos. On June 17 Joe Vallone and I, both of Colorado, began to climb the south face of La Esfinge (The Sphinx). Funded by an American Alpine Club Youth Fellowship Award, our team of two set out to make the first all-American asc...
Colorado: Hagerman Peak, Snowmass Peak District. During the last week of August 1949, Robert Hostetter became marooned overnight on Hagerman Peak. He later told a search party that, after progressing ahead of his companions, he decided to climb th...
The Throne, P 6500 and North Troll, Little Switzerland. The Pika Glacier is an arm of the Kahiltna Glacier some 15 miles south of McKinley. Jerry Handren and I established Base Camp at 5300 feet, equidistant from the Royal Tower and the Throne.We ...
California, Yosemite National Park. Roger Bunch (15) and a party of five led by his father were ski-touring to Tenaya Lake from Yosemite Valley via Clouds Rest. Roger’s boots were poorly waterproofed and were soaked through by the second day, and ...
After 12 days on Monte Roraima, Márcio Bruno, Fernando Leal, and I achieved the first ascent of a new route from the Guyana side: Guerra de Luz e Trevas (War Between Light and Darkness; 650m VI 5.11a A3 J4).We reached the wall by a 50-minute helic...
Death of Pilot Mike Ivers. Mike Ivers, owner of Gulf Air Taxi and the pilot for most of the expeditions in this area, died in a plane crash on July 29. He was attempting to haul rafting parties and their gear out of Glacier Bay National Park. He w...
Dhaulagiri Winter Attempt by Spaniards. The Koreans agreed to share the normal northeast-ridge route with the Spanish Catalans. The highest point reached by this expedition was 7000 meters, where leader Enric Lucas and Joan Carlos Griso bivouacked...
Akher-Chagh, Koh-e-Tez, Shayoz Zom. A Polish expedition, led by Ryszard Koziol, first made several acclimatization climbs in the Salang massif near the Salang Pass road. They then entered the Urgunt-e-Bala valley, which had been explored for the f...
K2 Attempt. On May 10, Pete Athans, Steve Matous, Andrew Lapkass, my brother Alan and I arrived in Islamabad. Athans and I began travelling north on the Karakoram Highway with 70 prepacked loads in a privately hired local bus on May 17. Meanwhile ...
Kodar Range, Stolb (2,850m), west pillar. Russians Bashkirtsev, Davydenko, Glazunov, Pedenko, and Veretenin, from the Siberian city of Irkutsk, made the first ascent of the pillar forming the left edge of the west face of Stolb, the southwest summ...
Gongga Shan. Hans Engl, Heinz Zembsch and I as leader made up the expedition, which left Germany on September 12 and returned on October 27. On October 6 all three members reached the summit of Gongga Shan (Minya Konka) via the northwest ridge. We...
Nanga Parbat 1953, by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. 192 pages, with 78 black-and-white photographs, 9 colored photographs, maps and plans. München: J. F. Lehmanns Verlag, 1954. Price, D. M. 16.80.Nanga Parbat, by Karl M. Herrligkoffer, translated fro...
Lautaro. Eric Jones, Mick Coffey, the Argentine Ernesto O’Reilly, and I crossed the southern Patagonian Icecap, covering a total distance of 300 miles on ice and taking 52 days in all. During this time Cerro Lautaro (11,089 feet) was climbed for t...
Makalu Attempt. Our members included Americans Peter Getzels, Brad Johnson, Peter Carse, Dr. James States, Brian Cox and me as leader and Britons Adrian and Alan Burgess. Our objective was a light-weight ascent of the northwest-ridge first-ascent ...
Sierra de la Culata, New Routes. This range situated north of Mérida offers an array of climbs on good rock. The peaks vary from 4200 to 4762 meters. In 1994, we opened two new routes. On April 17, Eduardo Márquez and I climbed the northeast spur ...
NO EXPERIENCE - SOLO CLIMBING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT FALL ON ROCKKentucky, Red River Gorge, BeachcomberOn February 13, Shaun Wilhoite (28) was camping in the area with a large group of friends. The group hiked to Pebble Beach around 2:00 p.m. Upon ...