FALL ON ICE, ICE TOOLS PULLED THROUGH MELTING ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHERColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett ChimneyOn May 13, my partner and I (32) set out for Hallett Chimney. The weather was warming, and a sunny day expected...
Lobuje East, West Buttress. A full article on this climb appears earlier in this Journal.
FALL ON ROCK – SLACK IN ROPE WHILE SIMUL-CLIMBINGCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, CommitmentOn June 17, Floyd (47), an experienced climber, was with two partners, belaying them from above. They were simul-climbing and slack developed between th...
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Avanà. Between October 1 and 7 Italians Paolo Stoppini, Paolo Tombini, Alberto Zucchetti, and I climbed a new route on the east pillar of Tsaranoro Atsimo. We christened out route Avanà, which in the local language means rainbow....
California, Mount Whitney. Eric Eichmann (ago 20) and Don Pfirmann (24) were part of a group of six University of California at Irvine students camping at East Face Lake and climbing various routes on Mt. Whitney. On December 20th Eichmann, Pfirma...
Mount Logan’s Hummingbird RidgeJohn Evans and Allen SteckPart I … Allen SteckThe Catchment Basin and the Agony of Osod July 8 to 18.The glacial valley lies in the blistering heat of the midafternoon Yukon sun. Two tents, one a shocking red color, ...
Kokshaal-Tau, Attempts and Exploration. I’d first learned of this area of China’s Tien Shan/Kokshaal-Tau range from a series of black-and-white photos taken by Christian Beckwith and a write-up published in the 1999 AAJ. Beckwith speculated that a...
On October 8, a female climber on top-rope fell from near the top of what is believed to be Earl’s Revenge (5.8). Unconscious but still breathing, she suffered a fractured forearm and possible spinal cord injury since she could not move her feet...
Moonlight SonataOn the oft-attempted southeast buttress, two Russians define commitment, deprivation, and triumph of the spirit while making the first ascent of 7,804-meter Nuptse East, Nepal.Yuri KoshelenkoMost people find contentment living quie...
Disteghil Sar, attempt. In June, Don Bowie, Peter Thompson, Ben Cheek, and I attempted the north ridge of Disteghil Sar (7,885m). Because of the badly convoluted nature of the Malangutti Glacier, this aspect of the world’s 20th-highest mountain ha...
Annapurna I traverse. Unquestionably the best climb of the season was the Annapurna I traverse by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Alberto Inurrategi. They were members of a six-man expedition jointly led by Inurrategi and Ed Viesturs. They had no She...
In early July I arrived in Kabul alone and took a chartered flight to Bamiyan Province. Here I hired a 4×4 and local guide/translator and drove to the Koh-e-Baba Mountains, a western extension of the Hindu Kush 170km west of Kabul. I had photos ...
Bandar Punchh I. Seven male trainees of the Nehru Institute, led by its principal Colonel L.P. Sharma, climbed Bandar Punchh I (20,720 feet) by a new route on May 16. Five girls from the NIM climbed to the summit on June 19 by the normal route.Kam...
May 6, 1999, 4:27 a.m. It has been 17 hours since the violent wind started its attack. I can’t sleep. I lie on the frozen sea ice. So far I have fixed three pitches in between storms. I can’t concentrate on this novel. I can’t even hear the bell...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (1)—On May 30, 1956 Patrick Dwyer (17) fell while climbing on the North Face of Hallett Peak. He fell free for nearly 200 feet, landed on a snow field and slid another 200 feet, stopping against a tree. Hitti...
The Ascent of Mount OwenFritiof M. FryxellONE naturally associates Mt. Owen with the adjacent Grand Teton for their summits are scarcely half a mile apart. Historically, also, these two highest of the Teton peaks are no less intimately related. Th...
FALLING ROCK – FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO TURN BACKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon, Caveat EmptorOn August 29, Brian Huff (23) was leading the second pitch of Caveat Emptor and established an anchor at the top...
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. In 1987, the Memphis Mountaineers enjoyed a productive year. The total membership of 55 included 35 regular members residing in the Memphis, Tennessee area, seven honorary members, and 13 associate members scattered thro...
Shingu Charpa, north ridge, attempt. Huge controversy has surrounded the claim by three Ukrainians to have made the coveted first ascent of the formidably long north ridge of Shingu Charpa (a.k.a. Great Tower, 5,600m). Igor Chaplinsky, Andrey Rodi...
On June 26, 1992, at 1145, Roland Fleck (59) was leading the “Flake Pitch” on the regular Guides’ Wall route belayed by partner Wes Mostaert. This pitch is about 500 feet off the ground and is considered to be 5.7 in difficulty. After clipping i...