TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-731959-7319741974U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock1221102643Snow62698423River5000Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent928116494Descent80577422Unknown129810Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock6755...
Lhotse, south face, winter attempt. The Japan Alpine Club Tokai Section accomplished a remarkable ascent to open a new route from the west ridge to the west face of K2 in 1997. What would be most appropriate for the next target? It didn’t take muc...
Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), north face and west ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), south face. In late summer Al Boardman, Jane Cooper, Elliot Forge, and I set out to explore the remote Katkar Valley, hoping to reach its head. To reach our lake...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn April 21, 1995, the “Angove-McKinley Expedition” departed from Talkeetna for the 7,200 foot base camp on Mount McKinley. United States Naval Office...
A five-hour walk northward from Gokyo along the right bench of the Ngojumba Glacier brought us to a plateau commanding a good view of Everest, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, and Hungchi (7,036m). We proceeded to base camp, which had an entire view of Hun...
RONALD E. FEAR 1943-1973During the last few years, Ron’s parents only saw glimpses of their son as he returned home from one expedition to exchange gear and clothes so he could leave on another. He managed to pack more expeditions into his 29 year...
Fida Brakk, northwest ridge, Jenga Spur. “Isn’t there anywhere else you can climb?” “Good to have known you.” Reactions to us traveling to Pakistan were not generally positive, but my experience the previous year, and that of every climber I know ...
Buttress 5,650m, first ascent, via west face (Million Indian Stars); Pt 5,750m (“Grandfather Enzo Peak”), south face-southeast ridge. In August an Italian expedition led by Massimo Marcheggiani, and which included Nadia Benedettini, Mariano Fabriz...
Mahindra, middle summit, Ashoka’s Pillar; Peak 5,960m; Orange Tower. After long and crazy travel days, including a ride from a fellow named Happy, Freddie Wilkinson, Pat Goodman, and I thankfully found the end of the road in the small Himalayan vi...
Chacraraju, West Peak. It was reported that Spaniards Simon Elias and Luis Angel Rojo repeated the Bouchard Route on the south face of the west peak (1000 meters, 85°). They also ascended the Pirámid Garcilaso by its southwest face (900 meters, 85...
AAC, Alaska Section. The Alaska Section got a jolt of energy from the AAC Board Meeting in Anchorage in April 2001.I was chosen as the new chair just before the board meeting. During the rest of the year, I worked to renew interest in the Club and...
Turret Peak and Mt. Warren. Some variations may have been added to the established routes which start from the saddle connecting these peaks. An ascent of Turret from the saddle (Elsie Col) was made during a severe snow squall by John Speck, Paul ...
Mt. Hood, South Face. A new route was put up on Mt. Hood in Oregon on September 19. Two separate lines in the same general area were climbed, as my partner, Kendall Dewey, and I elected to climb solo, but within close proximity of one another. Fro...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Cascade CanyonOn September 23, at 2230 Grand Teton dispatch received a call from Mike Shaw (23) reporting his partner, Keith Berli...
Los Gemelos, South Face and Other New Routes. In the previous climbing season, running from December 1980 to March 1981, local climbers made the following new routes worth reporting: Mesón Alto (5281 meters, 17,327 feet) south face direct, G. Macc...
The Purcell Range of British Columbia, by J. Monroe Thorington.8vo. x+; 150 pages, with 79 illustrations and 9 maps. New York: The American Alpine Club, 1946. $2.00.This is the first book dealing solely with the Purcell Range in terms of its histo...
FalerTower, Southwest Side, Wind River Range. On July 15, my father Jim and I climbed what we believe to have been a new route up P 12,607 (213w in Bonney guide, noted as Faler Tower). From our camp at the small lake on the southwest side of Islan...
Peak 4,764m, first ascent, southeast pillar, Xie Xie route. Giovanni Moretti, Riccardo Redaelli, Silvestro Stucchi, and I arrived from Italy and set up base camp at the head of the Changping Valley, between great nameless, unclimbed mountains that...
Kwangde Shar, North Face. The French team of Samuel Beaugey, Christophe Profit, Andre Rhem and Jerome Ruby made an alpine-style ascent of the north face of Kwangde Shar (6093 m) from November 27-December 1. The 1300-meter, 38-pitch route, Extra Bl...
Washington, Cascades, Lundin Peak. On 18 May James Barnett, Robert Rasar, Ann Antonich and George Aspman left the highway at Snoqualmie Pass at 7:30 A.M. to climb Lundin Peak. The day was clear and warm. They observed avalanche activity on adjacen...