Chichicapac, north ridge; Mamacapac, first ascent; Cornice, south ridge. Mike Cocker, Jonathan Preston, and I arrived in Peru on June 14 and spent a week acclimatizing and buying essentials before arriving at base camp (a four-hour walk with donke...
Bandarpunch Group. An Indian expedition was composed of Dr. S.B.L. Sharma, Ram Chander Bhardwaj, Ashok Kumar Gupta, Chandra Sekhar, Amarjit Singh, Baljit Singh and Sudhir Upadhyay. All reached the top of Kala Nag (6387 meters, 20,956 feet) in mid ...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INCOMPATIBLE PARTNERS–POOR COMMUNICATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeBruce Penn (43) and A1 Hancock (44) departed White River to climb Liberty Ridge on June 13. It took them three days to reach the base. O...
Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939Joseph P. PREMFirst Ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz, ca. 5600 m. (18,372 ft.)THE little Santa Vela Cruz Group lies directly S. of the Quimza Cruz Range, being separated from the same by the Tres Cruces Pa...
Misadventures Below ZeroUp against it in Antarcticaby Erik Decamptranslated by Marina Heusch“Are you okay?”“I’ve broken my leg. Open fracture.”“Merde.”Catherine has fallen some 20 meters on a slope of snow mixed with rocks. I ask the question in t...
April 2008: I’m eating dinner with Benoît Robert, who has just returned from a skiing and sailing trip to the Lyngen Alps. He shows me his pictures of Stovelen, a steep 850m face rising straight out of the sea and laced with thin lines. I’m immedi...
Table III1951-861959-8619871987USACANUSACANTerrainRock ... 237829615013Snow ... 14072433610Ice ... 1084862River .... 12300Unknown ; .... 18600Ascent or DescentAscent : ; ... 20793071448Descent : . ... 14262094516Unknown : ... 2284131I...
Yukshin Gardan Sar, First Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Pakistanis Mohamed Yaseen Siddiqi, Ahmed Bareed and Ibrahim Taufail, and Austrians Willi Bauer, Dr. Walter Bergmayr, Willi Brandecker, Reinhard Streif and me as leader. On May 18 we ...
Cho Oyu, Autumn Ascents and Attempt. Cho Oyu is a very popular climb. It is ascended mostly by the west ridge and the west face, regardless of whether the climbers approach from the Nepalese or the Tibetan side. There were two successful Spanish a...
FALL ON ROCKUtah, Zion National Park, Moonlight ButtressEarly on the afternoon of March 24th, a climber (40) who was following the first pitch of the Moonlight Buttress took an unexpectedly long pendulum swing, struck the rock wall, and sustained ...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Gerald Itkin, scheduled 266 climbs, including 16 in winter. The Basic Climbing Committee, headed by Dave Sauerbrey, enrolled participants into groups of nine with about four instructors for each grou...
FALL ON ROCK, ROCKSLIDEColorado, Mount Wilson, El Diente TraverseDuring the morning of July 26, a group of seven climbers were traversing the ridge between Mount Wilson (14,246 feet) and El Diente (14,159 feet) peaks, one of Colorado’s four classi...
Atomfjella Mountains, new Slovenian routes. This was my third Svalbard expedition. There were so many things I had to learn about Arctic logistical problems and the secrets of these cold mountains. The experience you gain in Svalbard is unique, an...
RAPPEL FAILURE AND CLUB CLIMB SUPERVISION—Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Chair Peak. On 7 September 1974, an 11-member Seattle Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course Experience Climb ascended the east ridge of Chair Peak in good weather, and continued t...
HAPE, CE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, COOKING IN TENT WITH NOVENTILATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 27, 1993, Czech Republic climber Lubomir Tesar (33) required evacuation from the 17,200 foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. His expedition,...
—10 ... The Sports of Winter. Ninety plates by Samivel. 4 to.Paris. Delagrave, 1933. Price Fr. 25.The author, who has already depicted the pleasures of Alpinism in a nerve-shattering volume, now turns his attention to the social and technical aspe...
Kangtega, east pillar, first ascent, winter ascent. The most interesting climb of the winter 2001-02 season was a new line followed by a trio of Frenchmen on Kangtega, 6779m, a peak in the Everest region southwest of Ama Dablam. Christophe Profit,...
Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m), attempt. Our Indo-American-British expedition included Indians Chewang Motup (co-leader), Dhan Singh, Kon- chok Tinles, and Tsering Sherpa; Americans Steve Swenson, Mark Wilford, and I (co-leader); and Brit...
International Mountain Rescue Handbook, by Hamish Maclnnes. New York: Scribner’s, 1973. 224 pages, 150 photographs, 130 drawings and diagrams, $10.00.*For years I thought of mountain rescue as an unfortunate necessity— as something that a group of...
Between July 15 and September 3 the Federacion Espanola de Deportes de Montana y Escalada (FEDME) organized two expeditions to the Hushe Valley. The first was an all-male team of Silvestre Barrientos, Mikel Bonilla, Alex Corpas, and Martin Elias, ...