RAPPEL FAILURE AND CLUB CLIMB SUPERVISION—Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Chair Peak. On 7 September 1974, an 11-member Seattle Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course Experience Climb ascended the east ridge of Chair Peak in good weather, and continued the descent via Route 1. The party was delayed by various factors, and arrived at the top of the final rappel point late in the day. While the leader, Marc Bardsley, and his assistant, Dan Michael, remained at the top to check the brake-bar set ups for the basic students and to supervise the belay, Doug Schafer and Bill Bramwell, who had completed the rappel, set up a second short unscheduled rappel. This was secured with a soft iron ring piton which was already in place and backed up with a nut. No belay was established. Four climbers successfully completed the rappel but as Bob Bochoven (39) was descending both anchors came out and he fell about ten feet. He was then lowered another 75 yards to a more comfortable and safe area. Bochoven was able to offer partial assistance. Mountain Rescue Council assistance was obtained and a routine carry-out was effected.

Analysis: I think this accident could have been avoided if the party had been smaller, therefore enabling me to maintain closer control and supervision. I also should have done the first rappel earlier and checked out what was going on below, while the assistant tended the top.