Churen Himal East Peak Attempt. An eight-man Korean expedition led by Do Chang-Ho attempted to climb the east peak of Churen Himal by its southeast ridge but they found the final summit ridge too difficult. It was very sharp, knife edged, steep ic...
Clyde Palisade, Primrose Ridge. This prominent crest adorns the north face of Clyde Palisade to end on the west summit. It is very visible from Glacier Lodge and usually divides the light from shadow. Dave Black, Mike Graber, and I made the first ...
The Third International Congress of Alpinism will be held at Chamonix, August 25th to 28th to discuss numerous items under the six main headings of Mountaineering (general and technical), Science, Conservation, Travel and Transportation, Health, a...
Monte Shipton-Monte Darwin, naming and reconnaissance. In 1962 my father, Eric Shipton, made the first ascent of the highest peak of the Cordillera Darwin in Tierra del Fuego with three Chilean companions, Cedomir Marangunic, Eduardo Garcia, and F...
Makalu, Ascent and Tragedy. Miss Taeko Nagao, Yuji Futamata, Yuko Okada, Takumi Ishizaka, Ayumi Nozawai and I were on Makalu’s normal northwest route. We placed Camp III on the Makalu Col at 7400 meters on September 26 and Camp IV at 7800 meters o...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn January 27, an experienced Mazama Club climbing leader (65) was climbing solo on the popular Southside route when he slipped at 9,000-foot elevation, sliding about 50 feet befo...
Pik Kommunizma and Pik Korzhenevskoi Winter Ascents, 1986. Serious winter mountaineering in the USSR has only comparatively recently begun. Until the beginning of 1986, no notable peaks in the Pamir Mountains had been climbed in winter. In January...
Tatatunshu and Pachancoto. Andreas Brückner, Caspar Vogel, Mark Ebneter and I climbed in the Cordillera Central in July before going to Huascarán. We made the fourth ascent of Pachancoto (18,537 feet) by the northwest face, possibly a new route, o...
P 1980, Above Jorge Montt Glacier, 1992. In August 1992, Gianni Rovedatti, Maurizio Folini, Dario Mura and I hoped to make a north-south traverse of the Northern Patagonian Icecap, starting up the Jorge Montt Glacier. Ten days of continuous bad we...
Annapurna II. An expedition organized by the Services of Great Britain, Nepal and India and led by Lieutenant Colonel J. O. M. Roberts made the first ascent of Peak 26,041 feet in the central Nepal Himalaya, commonly known as Annapurna II, in the ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgesOn July 31 a leader was having trouble getting into the lower of the two V slots on Double Vee (9+) on the upper left wall of Cathedral. He placed a small TCU (three cam unit) and h...
Mount Hunter. Arturo and Guido Giovanoli, Leo Hartmann, Jon Rudolf Bezzola and I tried to climb the north face of Mount Hunter, but we got hit by an avalanche at 9000 feet and so we gave it up. After climbing Mount Crosson by the east ridge on May...
Washington, Mount Baker. On May 20th Stephen Esses (age 22) died of exposure after spending a stormy night in a rudimentary snow cave near the summit of Mt. Baker. Esses, a University of Washington student, was one of fifteen student climbers in a...
Nun. Spanish Basques made the ascent of Nun by the northwest face. After establishing three high camps, leader Juan Manuel Sotillos, Juan Fernando Azcona, Josu Bereciartua and Amaya Aranzábal reached the top on July 19. A second summit attempt by ...
The Diagonal, East Face of Longs Peak. The “Diagonal” spans the east face of Longs Peak between Stettner’s Ledges and Craig’s Chimney. This smooth, vertical or overhanging face rises diagonally to an altitude of 13,200 feet. In 1958 George Lamb an...
FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACK Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleWhile five climbers were being evacuated higher on the mountain on August 1, 1994, a party of four began climbing the ‘Big Step’ on the East Ridge, as two ropes of two. The first rope ...
Nanga Parbat Attempts. There were several unsuccessful attempts on Nanga Parbat in 1991. Koreans led by Lee Dong-Won were unable to complete the climb via the 1962 German Diamir route. Italians under the leadership of Stefano Righetti reached a hi...
Cannon Mountain, YMC Dike. On September 17 John Reppy, Bob Crawford and I ascended the "YMC Dike,” adding a second NCCS IV to the list of Eastern climbs. (See also A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 147.) In the middle of the face just left of the Conn Buttre...
Mamostong Kangi II. Our joint Indo-Austrian expedition of twelve made the first ascent of Mamostong Kangri II (7023 meters, 23,042 feet). The Austrian members were Reinhard Streif, Wolfgang Mörtl, Wolfgang Köblinger, Hans Kloimstein, Raimund Vielk...
Going Light with Backpack or Burro, edited by David R. Brower. Foreword by Newton B. Drury. Contributions by Lewis F. Clark, Elizabeth Cowles, Alex Hildebrand, Joel H. Hildebrand, Milton Hildebrand, Mildred Jentsch, H. Stewart Kimball, Louise H. K...