Whistler Mountain, Southeast Rib. On September 1 Barry Nelson and I climbed a rib of good-to-rotten rock on Whistler. A nice layback and face-climbing pitch led to several pitches of scrambling up unstable rock. NCCSI, F7.Alan Kearney
AVALANCHE AND BURIED IN CREVASSE—British Columbia, Yoho Park, President” Glacier. Bruce Colpitts (17) was trail breaking with Kris Kubbinsky and Len Potter on “President” Glacier at 10:15 a.m. on October 9. They had crossed the bergschrund on mode...
Chaukhamba II Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Jai Young Jeon attempted the northeast ridge of Chaukhamba II, situated at the head of the Gangotri Glacier. All members reached C3 but continuous bad weather from September 18-20 exhausted them at...
West Face of Lone Peak. the “Book”. In September, while Fred Beckey and Dan Davis were climbing the Question Mark Wall of Lone Peak, a second new route was being put up the west face by Ted Wilson, Rich and Dick Ream and Court Richards. We climbed...
The Needles, Southern Sierra Nevada. This very accessible, technical rock-climbing area in the Sequoia National Forest north of Kerndale remained essentially unknown until “discovered” several years ago by Dan McHale of Los Angeles. McHale, Fred B...
Idaho Alpine Club. The year began with the best ice climbing in the Tetons and Snake River Gorge since 1986, inspiring several beginners to take the club’s ice-climbing class. In February we held our first avalanche school, which we hope to make a...
Púlpito Negro and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental. J. Chávez, H. Frank and S. Gaviria of the Club Campo Abierto, Bogotá, on October 31 1977 made the second ascent of Púlpito Negro (4930 meters, 16,175 feet), a prominent rock tower capped with ice...
Mt. Newton, Ski Descent, and Mt. St. Elias, Attempt. The Abruzzi Ridge of 18,008-foot Mt. St. Elias, the second-highest peak in the United States, was first ascended in 1897, but by 1997 it has become nearly impossible to approach safely. The Newt...
Tamserku. Sir Edmund Hillary returned to Solu Khumbu this year with a group of New Zealanders to continue his school and bridge-building program. This year an air strip was also constructed. In the post-monsoon period the climbers attacked Tamserk...
Baruntse, West Pillar. A team of eleven Russians led by Sergei Efimov crossed an icefall southwest of the summit and climbed the previously unattempted 850-meter West Pillar to the summit (7129 meters), encountering 65° to 75° mixed rock and ice. ...
Paine Chico Este Correction and Torre Paine Norte. In the A.A.J., 1977 on page 234 it stated that Paine Chico Este had been climbed for the third time. This was actually the fourth ascent since members of our club had made a previous ascent. In De...
Mount Temple, South Face. Fritz Zimmermann, Stan Gregory, and I made the first complete ascent of the south side of Mount Temple on September 3. Starting from the western end of Snow Lakes we followed a long system of slabby but easy gullies to th...
Huantsán. Our expedition placed Base Camp at Rajucolta Cocha on July 16. We placed Camp I at 16,900 feet on July 19, traversed the peak west of the col at the foot of the northwest ridge of the north peak of Huantsán and established Camp II in the...
Peak 10,091' and Other Activity. On May 10, Tracey Becken, Bill Drake and I were flown by Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air into the 8,300-foot level of the upper Chisana Glacier some seven miles north of Frederika Mountain. On May 11, we skied u...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Sierra Juárez. Werner Landry and I made the second ascent of the superb route, the “Giraffe,” in March, 1978, during three days of poor weather. The previously unreported first ascent was done in two-and-a-half days in 1975 b...
Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Chacraraju Este and Other Peaks. While we were in the Cordillera Blanca, the weather was rather unstable. There was little snow, which exposed rock and black ice and left bergschrunds open. We placed Base Camp in ...
Mount Everest, Ascent by George Mallory. Our team ascended the North Face route. On May 10, our first summit team left ABC to position themselves at C6 for a May 14 attempt. Chirring Sherpa, George Mallory and Jeff Hall were the first to summit at...
In April I climbed the east face of Mt. Osborne (4,714') with Phillip Hofstetter. The climb was 2,500' of moderate 45° snow, ice, and cliff bands. Osborne is the monarch of the Kigluaik Range, 35 miles north of Nome, along the spine of the Seward ...
ILLNESS-DIABETES, STRANDED, BAD WEATHERColorado, Capitol PeakOn September 8, 1981, Mike Harder (20) died before rescuers could reach him at the base of Capitol Peak. He was in a party of four who became stranded in bad weather. Two of the climbers...
Mulkila, 1977. On their way home from K2, on October 10, 1977 the Japanese Yu Watanabe and Yoji Teranishi climbed Mulkila (21,380 feet) from the north. They climbed the Mulkila Glacier to a 18,000-foot col. On October 8 they followed the snow ridg...