Asia, Nepal, Tamserku
Tamserku. Sir Edmund Hillary returned to Solu Khumbu this year with a group of New Zealanders to continue his school and bridge-building program. This year an air strip was also constructed. In the post-monsoon period the climbers attacked Tamserku (21,730 feet), an extremely difficult peak close to Kangtega. On October 15 they moved into Base Camp at 16,000 feet. It took a week to work out a route up a couloir into an airy col on the south ridge, where Camp II was established and occupied for the two weeks of the climb to the top. Sherpas could not be used higher than the col because of difficulties. Very severe ice climbing above the col on ice bulges took hours of route preparation and included some ice climbing in stirrups. Camp III was placed on the flat top of one of the ice bulges. What had appeared to be a sheer step proved easier than it had looked. Finally a half-mile of an appallingly corniced ridge led to the top. The climbers set up a bivouac halfway along this section of ridge. On November 4 Lyn Crawford, Peter Farrell, Dick Stewart and John Mackinnon climbed to the summit, while Jim Wilson and Don Mackay waited in Camp III in support.