Traverse of Endicott Mountains. Patrick Call, Cedron Jones and I traversed a portion of the Endicott Mountains in the Brooks Range during the end of August. We began at Anaktuvuk Pass, walked through Ernie Pass, up Grizzly Creek, over the shoulder...
Nepal, Various Winter Ascents. In the winter of 1996-97, only four expeditions came to Nepal, one each on Ama Dablam, Annapurna I, Makalu and Pumori. One Korean expedition, led by Park Young-Seok, reported success on Ama Dablam by its standard Sou...
Bhagirathi II and III, 1979. We had little information about this part of Garhwal. The only clear fact was that Bhagirathi II had been climbed. We found out after the expedition that the first ascent of Bhagirathi III had been made from the west, ...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Golden Ears Area. During the search for Mr. Evans and his son in June Don Ourom of the Mountain Rescue Group suffered severe leg fractures when hit by a falling rock. Quick radio communication brought an Air Force he...
K2. Italians Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner, Renato Casa- rotto and Alessandro Gogna, German Michael Dacher and Austrian Robert Schauer made up a strong team that hoped to climb the well publicized “Magic Line” on K2. This route would have...
Nun, Kun, White Needle and Pinnacle Peak. These peaks are now being frequently climbed. Aside from ascents noted elsewhere, Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was climbed by French led by O. Pierre, Swiss led by Michel Roch and Japanese led by Masaki ...
Too Many Darts. Tim Auger and I arose to do the East Side of Bridalveil. A quick game of darts and we set off. We never found the correct route, but just started climbing up obvious cracks to the right of the East Side route. The first pitch start...
Saraghrar South, Udren Zom South. Under the leadership of Kenichiro Yamamoto, the Hitotsubashi University Expedition left Chitral on June 27 and established Base Camp at 13,125 feet on the Rosh Gol Glacier on July 4. On the 9th Camp I was placed i...
Menthosa. An expedition of the Frosinone section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Vittorio Kulczycki, leader, Lorenzo Favè, Antonio Colasanti, Roberto Ferrante, Roberto Franceschetti, Luigi Lauro, Leone Mincio, Vicenzo Monti, Luciano Pl...
Paine Towers, 1989-90. The season in Patagonia had even worse weather than usual. In the Paine Towers Italian Guido Bonvicini made a solo ascent of the Torre Norte on November 25, 1989. That same day Mario Manica and Fabio Leoni also climbed the s...
FALL ON ROCK, EPILEPTIC SEIZUREWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 5,1987, Paul Sims (20) suffered an epileptic seizure while climbing. This caused him to fall. His belayer held him, but the seizure caused Sims to shake, and he then hit his...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez failed.
Huascarán Norte and Pisco. Raúl Bárcena Y, Guillermo Díaz R, Antonio Carmona and Vicente Hinojosa A climbed the normal route on Huascarán Norte, reaching the top on August 3. On August 11 Carmona, Samuel Díaz M, Andrés Méndez and Guillermo Díaz R ...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Summetry Spire. At 2100 on 13 August Joe Hogsed (19) and Betty Lu (21) were climbing the Durrance Ridge. They had completed the ridge and were scrambling the last 250 feet to the summit. The weather was bad; rain and thunder...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Swiss Stefan Wörner and Germans Hans Engl, Heinz Zembsch and me. We crossed into Tibet from Nepal via Kodari/Zhangmu, went to Tingri for a few days of acclimatization and continued by truck t...
Oak Creek Canyon, Pic de Coubertin. In celebration of the Olympic Centennial, the UIAA (which was in the area for a committee meeting) hired two local guides, Cameron Kern and Richard Elmquist, to climb an unclimbed formation, fix both pitches, an...
Chogolisa Attempt. An 18-member Italian expedition led by Augusto Zan- otti attemped unsuccessfully to climb Chogolisa. Details are missing.
Neuzeitliche Bergrettungstechnik. By Wastl Mariner. 183 pages; sketches. Notes on first aid by Dr. Med Hans Seidel. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1949. Price about $1.75.In a country where mountaineering accidents occur quite frequently one might ex...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. In June and July, 1996, Scott Backes, Ed Pope, Betty Roberts and I visited the Cordillera Real. We first traveled to the Jhanko Kota region, where we made a quick ascent of Cerro Wila Llojeta (5244m). I then soloe...
Kang Guru, avalanche tragedy to French expedition. The worst disaster ever to befall an expedition in the Nepalese Himalaya struck a seven-member French team trying to climb 6,981m Kang Guru. The only previous death on the mountain was that of a W...