Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club held its 15th Western Outing in Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park, Alberta, in July. Camp was located at Surprise Point on Amethyst Lake with 30 members in attendance. Given superb weather, several parties ...
FALLING ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Wind River Range, Mount WarrenOn July 24, 1989, National Outdoor Leadership School leader Phil Peabody set out at 0620 with three students, David Black (24), Justin Burchett (16), and Rob Hirschfield (20), to attempt ...
PROTECTION CAME OFF, SHOULDER DISLOCATION California, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn September 9, 1993, at 1700, I was dispatched to the SAR cache to work as the medic on a Half Dome SAR. Warner Braun, Pat Sullivan and I were flown to the base of Ha...
The Minarets were the scene of a number of climbs effected by members of the search parties looking for Walter A. Starr, Jr., who lost his life in a solo attempt on Michael’s Minaret. Norman Clyde, who found the body, and Oliver Kehrlein made two ...
Yangra Kangri, attempt on a new route. The highest summit in the Ganesh Himal lies on the Nepal-Tibet border and is referred to as Yangra Kangri (in Tibet) or Ganesh I (in Nepal). The 7429m peak was climbed on October 24,1955 from the Nepalese sid...
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE ANCHOR Alberta, Bow FallsOn Feb. 23 around noon, a party of three were starting the descent of this Grade III, WI4 route. F.B. lowered J.P. and D.P. from a three-screw anchor. F.B. then proceeded to rappel from a single Sim...
Chilean Andes. The twelfth ascent of Aconcagua was made on January 31st, 1937, by Juan Schuckert. The second ascent of El Tronador, 3470 m., was made in January, 1937, by Otto Meiling. In September, 1937, H. Hess and R. Roth succeeded in making th...
Singuchuli Attempt. Slovenes Tadej Golob and Žiga Petric wanted to make an attempt on Hiunchuli, but because there was nearly no snow on the east face of Hiunchuli, they attempted the south face of Singuchuli (6501 meters, 21,329 feet). After a fi...
Arapiles, AustraliaAlison OsiusIT HAD BEEN a slow morning, rainy. Wolfgang was lecturing on training, Kurt singing, Didier smoking, me eating borrowed prescription anti-inflammatories.But now we were at the base of India, 29, which several years a...
Mountains of the Mind. Robert Macfarlane. New York: Pantheon Books, 2003.320 pages. Hardcover. $24.00Imperial Ascent: Mountaineering, Masculinity, and Empire. Peter L. Bayers. Boulder: University Press of Colorado, 2003.174 pages. Hardcover. $29.9...
Cho Oyu ContradictionsEscaping harsh realities on a single-push new route in the Himalaya.Pavle KozjekI first climbed in the Himalaya more than 20 years ago. In the early 1980s I was a member of large expeditions organized by the Slovenian Mountai...
The Ascent. Jeff Long. William Morrow, New York, NY, 1992. 284 pages. $20.00. Jeff Long’s second novel describes an attempt on the north side of Everest. The route, the “Kore Wall,” is “an imaginary monster,” but it often feels very real indeed. O...
Washington, Mt. Johannesberg—On August 30, Don Grimlund (24) and five companions, all experienced climbers, had reached the summit of Mt. Johannesberg. The approach had been from Cascade Pass by a circuit around Mixup via Gunsight Pass and a conto...
PULMONARY EDEMA, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Longs PeakStephen Weiswell (20) arrived in Boulder, Colorado, from Massachusetts. He climbed for a number of days in the Boulder area (5000 to 6000 feet in elevation), then went directly to the Longs Peak A...
INEXPERIENCE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressMike McCarthy (32) faxed his Mount McKinley climbing registration form to the Talkeetna Ranger Station on March 16. His climbing experience consisted of three hikes up Long’s P...
Panch Chuli II and Panch Chuli III, Attempt. An expedition of the Explorers and Adventurers, Bombay, India, led by Divyesh Muni, attempted Panch Chuli II (6904 m) and Panch Chuli III (6312 m) in the Pyunshani Valley in the month of May. Divyesh Mu...
Washington, summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Previously unreported were two ascents of Poster Peak, by probable new routes, in the summer of 2003. Poster Peak is shown on ...
Learning to Breathe. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2005.276 pages. £18.99. $44.95.This remarkable debut memoir, co-winner of the 2005 Board- man-Tasker Award and winner of the best-book prize for Adventure Travel in the 2005 Banff Mountain Book F...
Mt. Langley, S-Wall. Technically Langley has been the most ignored of the Sierra’s 14,000' peaks. Then in 1999 a fine line went up the big north face. In September Michael Thomas and I thought we’d have a look, but we never got there. A high roadh...
Lindeman, North Couloir, British Columbia Cascade Range. On November 14, Rob Freeman, Tim Hudson, John Petroske and I climbed a four-pitch snow-and-ice couloir on the north face of the north peak of Mount Lindeman. The prominent couloir parallels ...