Palisade Traverse in a day. Gravity takes hold of my legs, and I stumble. My lungs still bursting, I see a flash and suddenly my father, dead seven years, turns into Norman Clyde on a bergschr- und slide and screams, “Here I go to Hell!” Piss runs...
Mar Samar Group. W. Paszynski and K. Spyrka entered the Mar Samir region (previously also called Mir Samir) and climbed on September 29 a summit of c. 5100 meters or 16,733 feet from the southwest. The peak lay southwest of Mar Samir.
Annapurna IV. We climbed the standard northwest ridge of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet), using some 3000 feet of fixed rope. Our expedition was organized by the German Alpine Club Mountain and Ski School with twelve members and two guides...
Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct. On July 1 Patrick Fleming and I, both secret members of the notorious Wyoming Alpine Club, whined our way up a new route on the northwest face of Lost Eagle Pinnacle. Beginning at dawn we headed for a l...
Eldorado Peak Area. Several climbs in this area include the North Ridge of Tricouni Peak, “Thunder Peak” near Mount Logan, the serrated ridge running northwest off of Eldorado, and “Early Morning Spire” northwest of Dorado Needle.
Fang Attempt. An Austrian expedition led by Josef Mayerl set up Base Camp at 11,300 feet on April 2. Camps I, II, IV and V were established at 15,600, 18,375, 19,200 and 21,325 feet on April 6, 12, 14 and May 2 respectively. While descending from ...
Peaks above Glacier Bay, Fairweather Range. John and Pati Letcher, my wife Audra and I spent the month of June 1969 in Glacier Bay. We traveled up the bay in the Letchers’ 25-foot sailboat Aleutka, but the unusually clear and calm weather meant we...
Seneca: The Climbers Guide. Tony Barnes. Earthbound Sports, Chapel Hill, North Carolina, 1995. 163 pages. $19.95.Comment: Over 400 routes in this clear, no-nonsense revision. Recommended routes listed with one star. Doubly indexed by name and rati...
Salcantay, East and South Ridges, 1983. Yugoslavs arrived at Base Camp south of Salcantay on June 7, 1983. On June 12 Tine Bucik, Slavko Frantar, Vanja Matijevic and Lado Vidmar started up the south ridge while brothers Niko and Slavko Novak heade...
Dranang Ri, North Ridge, Attempt. It was reported that an eight-man Japanese team led by Susumu Kobayashi attempted the unclimbed snow/ice crest of the north ridge of Dranang Ri (6801m) in 1996, reaching ca. 6000 meters before being turned back by...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our Argentine-Slovene expedition had as objectives peaks northwest of Lago Argentino. We were Jure Skvarca, Cesarino Fava, Boris Kambic, Luciano Pera and I. My brother and Pera left Buenos Aires on January 2. They were ...
Central Tower of Paine, West Face. Fabrizio Defrancesco, Fabio Stedile and I arrived at Base Camp on October 14. After several unsuccessful attempts, stopped by bad weather, we finally completed on November 2 the first ascent of the west face of t...
Chopicalqui and Huascarán. An all-ladies party was led by Fukimo Ogura and composed of Naoko Moritani, Taeko Yanagishita, Misako Kobuna, Takako Suzuki, Mioko Suga and Onorat. After failing to climb San Juan in late May, all climbed Chopicalqui fro...
Alpinismo Español en el Mundo, volume I, by José María Aspiazu (in Spanish). Madrid: Editorial R. M., 1980. 215 pages, 54 black & white and 70 color illustrations, 10 sketch-maps and line drawings.I approach books that record the mountaineerin...
Everest Ascent and Paraglider Descent. Our expedition had as members Jean-Marc Boivin, Jean-Pierre Frachon, Michel Metzger, André Georges (Swiss), Gérard Vionnet-Fuasset, René Robert, C. Aguilera, L. Coudeyre, P. Pallandre, Denis Colangettes and m...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Yellowstone National ParkOn June 19, 1985, Albert Knight (22) and David Languilli (21) were ascending the Cutoff Mountain Ridge by bushwacking on a route parallel to a maintained trail. They reached an area of hi...
Cordillera Vilcanota. An expedition of the Paris-Chamonix section of the French Alpine Club was composed of Guy Collard, Jacques Martinet, Léon Carron, Suzanne Valentini, Jean-Pierre de Léglise, Bernard Lock, Annik Wates, Françoise Dot and me. We ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXHAUSTION, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENT Utah, Zion National ParkOn September 24, 1987, two climbers drove almost nonstop to Zion from Atlanta, Georgia, arriving at 0900. On seeing the great walls of Zion, they decided to do a climb poi...
Satopanth, South Face Attempt and Tragedy, 1983. A Hungarian expedition of seven, led by Peter Dékány, made an attempt on the south face of Satopanth. After establishing Base Camp at Nandanban on October 4, 1983 and Camp I at 18,375 feet on Octobe...
Nevado del Plomo, El Sendero del Léon and east ridge.A remarkable ascent has been made on the 6,050m (also given as 6,070m) Nevado del Plomo (a.k.a. El Plomo), a high peak in the Juncal Group, located east of Santiago on the Chilean-Argentinean bo...