End of the Omega Foundation and new Vinson map. This expedition [above report] ends the GPS surveying work of the Omega Foundation in Antarctica. Since 2001, the Foundation has generously supported seven GPS expeditions to Antarctica—six of them t...
JAMES WADDELL ALEXANDER 3d 1888–1971James Alexander was born at Sea Bright, N.J., September 19, 1888, and died in Princeton, N.J., on September 23, 1971. In early life he described himself as socialist and atheist, and, to be in character, intermi...
Shafat Valley, first ascent of Kova Peak and Gulmatonga Tower. The Curbatts (the Crows) are a close-knit group of alpinists from Menaggio on Lake Como, Italy. In 2002 they planned to attempt a big granite wall on an unclimbed 5,500m peak in a side...
BELMORE BROWNE1880-1954Artist, explorer, mountaineer, and great exponent of northern outdoor living and wilderness travel, Belmore Browne, a member since 1913 and later honorary member of the Club, died May 2, 1954, after a short illness, while st...
Annapurna, South Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Slovenes Viktor Grošelj, Dr. Igor Tekavcic, Filip Bence, Vanja Furlan, Matjaž Jamnik, MihaKajzelj, Benjamin Ravnik, Slavko Rožic, Uros Rupar, Robert Supin, Iztok Tomazin, Janez Hrovat a...
Only 16km wide at its narrowest, the Wakhan Corridor is an obscure panhandle of land giving Afghanistan a tiny border with China. Exploration started long before mountaineers ventured into the area. Marco Polo is reputed to have spent time here re...
JULIA KENNETT COLT 1878 - 1948Julia Kennett Colt, the eldest child of John and Violet Kennett Whittaker, was born on 1 April 1878, in St. Louis, Missouri. The Whittakers spent the summers in Bar Harbor, Maine; and there as a child, accompanied by ...
FRITIOF MELVIN FRYXELL 1900-1986Fritiof M. Fryxell, geologist, professor, writer and mountaineer, died December 19, 1986 at his home in Rock Island, Illinois. He had been a member of the American Alpine Club for 56 years and was elected to honorar...
Starlight and Storm. The Ascent of the Six Great North Faces of the Alps. By Gaston Rébuffat. Translated by Wilfred Noyce and Sir John Hunt; technique section translated by Ronald Le Grand. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. New York: E. P. Dutton & C...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, IGNORED OBVIOUS POTENTIAL FOR AVALANCHEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham DirectOn the morning of June 5th at 0445, a large avalanche along the Ingraham Direct route was reported to NPS rangers by RMI guides on the Ingra...
Shipton Spire, Life is Lilac, solo new route to shoulder. In the summer of 2007 I went to Shipton Spire and soloed a new route to the first needle atop the northeast pillar (870m, A4+ 6a, 17 pitches to 5,300m). It was almost all hard aid (because ...
El CapitanWarren J. HardingI suppose this article could be titled "The Conquest of El Capitan." However, as I hammered in the last bolt and staggered over the rim, it was not at all clear to me who was conqueror and who was conquered: I do recall ...
The First Ascent of “Nettie L” MountainHoward PalmerIN spite of the fact that more than forty years have elapsed since the opening of the Canadian Pacific Railway across the Selkirks, the mountains beyond a belt 20 miles south of the railroad are ...
1951–19921993Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta28585618191035British Columbia23992524437Yukon Territory312563113Ontario27650000Quebec22549305East Arctic...
The High Himalaya. Art Wolfe. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 160 pages, 140 photographs, HARDCOVER. $49.95.Few contemporary nature photographers are as prolific or talented as Seattle-based Art Wolfe, who spends nine months a year travelin...
Pethangtse (6,739m), south face to southwest ridge. The summits of Everest and Makalu are 20km apart. Halfway between is Pethangtse, on the border of Nepal and Tibet. On October 30 Stephen Graham, Colin McLean, and I, with climbing Sherpas Dawa Gy...
HERSCHEL CLIFFORD PARKER 9 July 1867-12 March 1944In 1905 a kind fate led me to the smoking room of a westbound Canadian Pacific train.* The only occupant was a man whose physical and facial characteristics were so unusual that I was instantly dra...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1), Avalanche Canyon—On July 6, John Nance (19) and Rodrigo Alconero (20) were on a climbing walk in the Park near Nez Perce Peak. Rodrigo Alconero was somewhat vague as to how the party had entered Avalanche Ca...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn January 1, Marvin Johnson (13) and Kendall West (20), novice climbers, were doing a mixed 3-4 class nondescript route on the lower half portion of the western shou...
Gyachung Kang, fourth ascent from Nepal, via variants to southwest spur. On October 17 Hiroshi Hanada, Eisuke Shigekawa, and Tamting Sherpa from a seven-member Japanese expedition (Fukuoka University) led by Mitsuo Uematsu, reached the summit of G...