Harvard 1952 Brooks—Mather ExpeditionThayer ScudderTHE afternoon of 25 June 1952 four members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club sat at McKinley Park Station waiting for the freight from Fairbanks. It was a pleasant wait, our first real rest since...

Various ascents. My father, Charles B. Daellenbach of Albany, Oregon, Scott McGee of Anchorage, Alaska, Fred Skemp III of La Crosse, Wisconsin, and I, of Portland, Oregon, took a helicopter transport from Juneau to the Gilkey Trench in the Coast R...

AVALANCHE, UNSTABLE CONDITIONS, UNSAFE POSITIONOregon, Mount HoodOn June 20, 1982, an avalanche struck three members of a climbing group at the 3150-meter level of Mount Hood, killing Hugh Hake (45) and injuring Charles Hysmith (31) and Dean Tehee...

LIGHTNING–POOR POSITIONUtah, Canyonlands National Park, Lightning Bolt CracksThe incident happened on Thursday, April 12 at about 12:15 p.m. Peter Carrick (Assistant Manager for Pacific Edge Climbing Gym) and I (Pat Kent) were on Lightning Bolt Cr...

Pan American Story— El Gran Trono BlancoPaul PianaIHAVE ALWAYS ADMIRED LIONEL TERRAY and his choice of climbing objectives. Terray lived in the greatest era of climbing, an era when he could choose nearly any objective. He didn’t choose a goal mer...

Isolation Peak 1, first ascent; Mt. Shiverick, West Ridge. Mike King flew Pat Callis, Dan Davis, Mickey Schurr, and me into a camp between Isolation Peak 7 and Peak 2,488m on the Isola- tion-Malamute Glacier Divide on July 23. We climbed these pea...

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILEDCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakOn July 2, Aaron (28), Mark (48), Chad (28), and Brian (49) started up the West Pillar of Eichorn Pinnacle (five pitches, 5.9 or 5.10b). Brian was unable to manage...

When Ged Desforges, Ruben Gutzat, Dan McManus, Tom Spreyer, Tony Stone, James Vybiral, and I arrived in the Hermelndal below the imposing towers of the Tininnertuup group and the awesome sweep of walls of the Hermelnbjerg, only a handful of routes...

FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 16, 1986, Thierry Broisat (30), Michel Legras (27), Patricia Tuveri (25) and Jean-Francois Tuveri (27), members of the French “Edelweiss” expedition to climb the Wes...

BESIDES the 8000-meter giants, the Karakoram contains countless attractive smaller peaks. Though much lower, they often make up in difficulty what they lack in altitude. On the northern edge of the Biafo Glacier rise the Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and t...

Tawoche Attempt. Ten Britons and Americans were led by Scott Mal Duff on a guided climb on the southwest face to the southeast ridge of Tawoche. None of the clients got higher than 6100 meters, but after they left, on October 2 Duff and the other ...

RAPPEL ERROR-ANCHOR FAILUREArizona, Sycamore Canyon, Paradise ForksOn November 5, Shelley Windsor (31) had been climbing on several routes at Paradise Forks, Sycamore Canyon with her climbing partner Mark Brenner (26). During the climbs and rappel...

Army Service ForcesOffice of the Quartermaster GeneralWashington 25, D. C.SPQRD 201Case, John C.19 December 1945Mr. John C. Case President, American Alpine Club 140 East 46th Street New York, New YorkDear Mr. Case:This office wishes to express its...

Louise Boyd Land, first ascents. We were expecting things to go wrong, but for the first few days of our two months in Greenland, very little seemed to go right. Our Cambridge University expedition comprised Natalie Clegg, Sam Harrison, Madeleine ...

MAX E. FRIEDMANN1890-1954Max E. Friedmann, member of the American Alpine Club since 1942, died suddenly of a heart attack on a train approaching Chicago March 31, 1954. Mrs. Friedmann and he had been in the Virgin Islands for a winter holiday and ...

Mount Upton and Other Peaks. In 1968, Philip P. Upton made the first landing at the Arctic Institute of North America’s Mount Logan High Camp at 5300 meters. There followed 500 more plane trips without incident to that most inhospitable site. The ...

Mount McKinleyMilan Kriššak Memorial RoutePhilip JohnsonTHE CHANCE FOR an Englishman to climb with a Czechoslovak mountaineering expedition must be, in the ordinary course of events, relatively slim. That I had that opportunity was due to a combin...

HENRY WELTY COULTER, JR.1920-1996Henry (Hank) Welty Coulter, a prominent and distinguished older member of the American Alpine Club, died of a pulmonary ailment on February 12, 1996, in Lebanon, New Hampshire. He had spent most of his life in Wash...

Henry P. Karstens—1878-1955FRANCIS P. FARQUHARNo one has been more intimately connected with Mount McKinley than Harry Karstens, who died November 28, 1955, in Fairbanks, Alaska. He lived the greater part of his life within sight of the mountain, ...

Dos Picos, Cordillera del Río Tigre. Three expeditions visited this rugged region, which lies about 80 miles south of Bariloche, west of Cholila. The members of the Club Andino Esquel, who made the first ascent of the south (highest) tower of the ...