Philip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range. Ellen Wood, Erich Hinze, Terry Rollerson, Evelyn Feller and I spent two weeks in August climbing in the most heavily glaciated portion of the Philip Smith Mountains near the head of Accomplishment Creek. We cl...
Mount Baring, East Buttress of South Peak. On May 20, Ken Johnson and I climbed an interesting route on the south peak of Mount Baring. We approached via the straighforward south slopes of Baring from old logging roads. We followed up the remains ...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION (TOOLS) PULLEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Murchison, Balfour WallOn February 9, R.C. (40) was with a large group climbing on the Balfour Wall, an area with a variety of one-pitch top-ropeable ice climbs on the lower...
Teton Range, Middle Teton, North Wall to Taylor Route. After a free ascent of Royal Robbins’s Taylor Route on Middle Teton a year earlier, Hans Johnstone wanted to open another line on the steep north face of the Middle Teton. Lying between the No...
Jongsang Attempt. Our joint Slovene-Nepalese expedition hoped to climb Jongsang (7483 meters, 24,550 feet) by its south face alpine-style. The peak has been climbed only once, by the 1930 Dyhrenfurth expedition from the north. We were Filip Bence,...
Swiss-French Expedition. The Swiss, René Dittert, Victor Lasserre, and Rodolphe Tissières, and the French, Dr. Roger Bretton and Robert Gréloz, spent August climbing on the west coast of Greenland near Sukkertoppen, not far from the Arctic Circle....
Kang Guru, Winter Solo Ascent. A four-man Japanese team led by Koichi Kato pitched Base Camp at 12,625 feet, Camp I at 17,050 feet on December 11 and Camp II on the west ridge. Hiroyuki Baba left Base Camp on December 17 and bivouacked at 20,500 f...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Leavenworth—Icicle CreekOn May 13, 1984, Dr. Robert Yakel (52) was on an Olympic Mountain Rescue Team (for which he is the medical advisor) training trip to the Icicle Creek practice area when he took...
Moby Dick, 1988. The very prominent steep and crevassed north glacier of Moby Dick was climbed for the second time on July 24, 1988 by Dave Pollari, Jim Ruch and me. During a 1986 trip into the Battle Range we had contemplated the route, but wide-...
Colorado: (2) near Golden During the summer of 1950 two young children, ages 10 and 7, were on a picnic in Clear Creek Canyon with their parents. The two boys could hardly wait to climb the mountainside. The seven-year-old slipped and his brother ...
Austral Summer Season in the Fitz Roy Area, 1991-2. News is beginning to reach us now on February 14 about the climbing season during the end of 1991 and the beginning of 1992. Aguja Poincenot was climbed by Argentines Maximo Schneider and Oscar P...
Cerro Trinidad, Velebit. This route was fun, but not as hard as others in this region. Ivica Matkovic and I were in the area for only a short time in January, and began with six days of constant rain. Nearing the end of our time limit, we decided ...
East Horn of Falling Ice Glacier (11,400). Traversed on July 31st by the writer. Ascent by south ridge; descent by east side.
Sierra Vilcabamba. On July 21 the Germans, Dolf Meyer and Martl Schiessler, climbed the Nevado Chamas Chico, which is over 16,500 feet, but had to turn back the next day on the Nevado Chamas Grande (19,350 feet). Meyer alone later climbed Coropuna.
Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. On May 31 Ron Frid, our helicopter pilot deposited Bruce Balderston, A1 Mathews, Dave Sweet and me and our gear at the foot of the unclimbed northwest ridge of Mount Logan. The ridge rises out of the Logan Glacier fro...
Right Mitten. In Monument Valley, Dan Langmade and Dave Insley climbed the Right Mitten (6 pitches, 5.9, A2). The route ascends the crack system beginning at the right edge of the Thumb.Eric Bjørnstad
British Columbia, Purcell Range, Commander Mountain. On 27 July David Jones, John Christian, Murray Foubister, and Jan Atlung (26) were attempting a new route on a rib of the NE face of Commander Mountain. David Jones led a rope pitch, anchored an...
Northeast Face, Squaretop. Layton Kor and I started our climb up a steepening slab system on the northwest face, between two converging couloirs. This section had about six leads, two of which had some quite difficult free moves protected by piton...
STRANDED ON WATERFALL ICEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pemeberton AreaOn December 22, 1990, three ice climbers were on a waterfall at Soo Bluffs. The leader, N.Z. (29), got to within about eight meters of the top of the pitch, and then was un...
Changi Tower Main Peak, Excess Baggage. Excess Baggage starts directly above Camp I at the base of a four-pitch, left-facing comer. (Camp I is at the base of the bottom tier of Changi Tower. Changi is two-tiered on its east face, with the bottom t...