Mount Logan Attempt and Ascent of McArthur. Baldomero Rodríguez, Santiago Alvarez, Enrique Lobeto and I were in the St. Elias Mountains in July. At first we attempted the Centennial Ridge on Mount Logan but withdrew because of bad weather and dang...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Olympic National ParkAt 10 a.m. on July 13, John Ury (34) and Roger Drake (30) were climbing West Peak from the Eel Glacier when Ury lost his balance and fell, pulling Drake with ...
Tirich Mir, Ascent. The Japan Hindu-Kush Expedition-1995 succeeded in climbing Tirich Mir (7706 m) on July 7, 1995. The team was led by Nozawai Ayuuni and comprised Iwazaki Hiroshi, 34, Imamura Hirotaka, 35, Imamura Fumiko, 35, L.O. Captain Abid J...
Mount Elijah, North Ridge. On July 6, we followed bear trails toward Elijah’s north ridge. The route ascended a pocket glacier to a notch at 6400 feet. From there the ridge made a direct line to the summit on solid rock. Descent was via the west p...
Nenana Mountain, Descent Gully and South Buttress. In March, with Fairbanks local Seth Adams, I followed rumors of granite and an unclimbed named summit to Nenana Mountain (2,402m) in the western Hayes Range. After 70km of skiing via the Yanert Ri...
Shackletons Bjerg, Various Ascents. On July 1, Nigel Edwards brought in a group of seven climbers that included the Greenland expedition veteran Derek Fordham. A total of ten ascents, of which seven are believed to be firsts, were made during thei...
El Obispo, 1986. The first Venezuelan expedition to the Altar group was led by Luis Troconis. We shouldered supplies to the traditional Base Camp south of El Obispo. On December 25, 1986, we placed two tents at 4900 meters and the following mornin...
Mt. Foraker, McNeill-Nott Memorial to French Ridge. From May 12-14, Will Mayo and Maxime Turgeon climbed 5,200' of difficult new terrain, up to WI5+ M6R A0, on the south face of Mt. Foraker to the junction with the 1976 French Ridge route. Their c...
Chirung, 1980. The leader of the British Padar Expedition, Christopher Mark Lloyd was descending unroped with Christopher Griffith from an alpine ascent of Chiring (c. 6000 meters, 19,685 feet) on August 23, 1980 when a cornice collapsed and he fe...
Himlung. Under the leadership of Junji Kurotaki, five Japanese and three Nepalese made the first ascent of Himlung (7126 meters, 23,380 feet) via the east ridge from the south. The route had been twice unsuccessfully attempted by Japanese. On Octo...
Mount Dickey South Face. A full article is found earlier in this Journal.
Cho Oyu in Winter. Our expedition had six members: Americans Peter Athens and Craig Ballinger, Czechoslovakians Jaromír Stejskal and Dušan Becík and Canadians Alan Burgess and me as leader. We made what is probably the first alpine-style winter as...
Badrinath to Kedarnath, Second Mortal Traverse, and Ascent of Pt. 5758. The crossing of the Satopanth Col and across the Markanda Ganga valley involves a mixture of mountaineering and bushwhacking to negotiate three 15,000-foot ridges through some...
Annapurna. Our expedition was composed of Francisco José Pérez, Kaji Sherpa and me. We climbed Annapurna alpine-style by the north face using the Dutch rib. We set out from Pokhara on September 16 and got to Base Camp at 4500 meters up the Miristi...
Khan Tengri, North Face, Variation. We were a team of five: Denis Urubko (leader), Sergey Samoylov, Vasiliy Pivtsov, Alexandr Rudakov, and Damir Molgatchev. We started up the Myslovskiy route on August 2. The north face of Khan Tengri is 2800 mete...
Aconcagua, South Face, Ascent by First Argentine Woman and Twins. Probably the youngest two climbers to ascend the south face of Aconcagua were the twins Carolina and Horacio Codo. She is also the first Argentine woman to have made the climb. In o...
Wheeler Crest, Big Gray Pinnacle. In November, I joined a visiting French climber, David Belden, in making the first ascent of this 1000-foot tower by a prominent dihedral on the east face. The climbing was mostly in cracks and chimneys with a F10...
In the French Valley of Torres del Paine National Park, Sebastian Muñoz (Colombian) and I established Anarquía Vertical on a previously virgin formation, El Cuchillo (the Knife; ca 2,000m), located on the southern flank of La Espada (the Sword). O...
Cloudveil Dome (12,000). East-to-west traverse on July 21st, by Anderson Hilding and the writer. Continuing westward, a traverse was made of the ridge extending from Cloudveil Dome to the South Teton, and five additional minor summits were visited.
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn October 27, 1988, Francis Walters (age unknown) fell six meters to the ground while leading Orfan (5.9). He was three meters above his protection when he ...