Cayangate Group and Ausangate Attempt. A light expedition from Kraków climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota, staying in a hotel in Ocongate. The approach from there to the foot of the mountains was made each time by truck and then with horses. Staying in a hotel was very comfortable and protected the party from robbery, but it took much more time than camping in the mountains. On July 16 Kazimierz Ambrozy, Eugeniusz Chrobak, Wlodzimierz Derda and Michal Kwasny ascended Collpa Anante (6110 meters, 20,046 feet), the highest in the Cayangate group, by its northwest face. The rocky buttress was reached via a crevassed glacier. Ten pitches of UIAA V + rock and V ice led them to the 5600-meter col, where they bivouacked. From there they followed the north ridge, which steepened to 60°. This was a new route and maybe the second ascent of the difficult peak. From July 22 to 24 they attempted the north buttress of Ausangate (6372 meters, 20,905 feet). After having overcome the most serious difficulties, they abandoned the climb because of bad weather. On August 1 and 2 Ambrozy, Chrobak, Derda and Mrs. Grazyna Chrobak climbed the south face of Ausangate. Ambrozy and Mrs. Chrobak reached a ridge tower of 6100 meters and Chrobak and Derda got to the 6300-meter foresummit, but none got to the main summit because of a thunder storm.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland