Climbs by Indian Expeditions. A 12-member team of the Mountain Lovers Association left Asansol, West Bengal for the virgin peak Srikanta (20,120 feet) in the Gangotri region. They trekked from Jhala via Harsil and established Base Camp at 14,500 f...
Masa Gang, 1985. More information has been received on the first ascent of Masa Gang or Masang Kang than was reported on page 211 of A.A.J., 1986. The Kyoto University Alpine Club was led by Ryohei Hori. The main group of the expedition left Thimp...
Ishinca, Urus Este. My wife Lena and I with the porter Marcelino Vargas spent two weeks based at 13,800 feet in the Quebrada Ishinca. On June 7 we climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) via the southwest ridge, finding a 100-foot difficult snow wall just b...
Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge, Ascent. Jae Soo Kim (expedition leader), Young Tae Kim (climbing leader), and expedition members Oun Bea Kim, Seong-Sang Kim, Min-Gi Jo, Yong Gun Kim, Il-Oong Jung, Dong-Ho Seo, Seong-Cheol Kim, Chi-Won Yun, Yeon-Ry...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The Club had a full program of meetings, lectures and trips during 1950. Rock climbers were very active: many of the chapters did more along this line than in the past. White-water canoeing was promoted with considerable...
Dir Gol Zom. An Italian expedition, led by Riccardo Varvelli and composed of Enrico Barbero, Guido Bertero, Filippo Corsini and Per Franco Giraudi, climbed above the south branch of the upper Tirich Glacier. On August 6 Barbero, Giraudi and Varvel...
Everest Attempt, Tragedy and Winter Ascent of Lhotse. Our joint Belgian-Polish expedition arrived in Nepal in October. We invited Polish climbers Andrzej Zawada, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy to accompany us as advisers. It took a couple of ...
FALL FROM TREE, BEARSWyoming, TetonsAt 0730 on August 14, 1985, Susan K. Walker (32) telephoned the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to register for a solo one-day climb of the East Ridge of Buck Mountain.According to a friend, Walker departed the Whiteg...
High Altitude Physiology. Edited by John B. West. Hutchinson Ross, Pennsylvania, 1982. 462 pages. $55.High Altitude Physiology. Coleridge wrote “the lessons of the past illuminate the future” and the more one studies, the more one comes to respect...
The weather in early 1971 was extremely bad in all the southern Andes with nearly constant storms from early December to mid-February. An expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche, Jorge Aikes, Hugo Bella and others attempted Fitz Roy, following f...
Mount Battle, Northwest Face. The Yorkshire Schools Exploring Society of England spent 14 days in Auyuittuq National Park. On August 23, eight of the 16 people climbed Mount Battle’s northwest face via a gully running directly to the col between t...
Andromeda, North Face to the West Summit. Bugs McKeith and I made this new* route on August 12. The route makes a fairly direct line up the rock and ice face. We crossed the bergschrund well to the right. A long traverse left under the first rock ...
Cerro Plata is the highest summit of the Cordon del Plata and for a long time was considered to be over 6,000m. It lies south of Vallecitos, but both normal routes are generally accessed from the Salto base camp. On September 25 Rodrigo Maique a...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING SOLO, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakOn August 22, 1989, Pat Teague at the Valley SAR cache received a telephoned report of a climbing accident on Cathedral Peak. Accordin...
Nameless Tower Attempt, Trango Towers. On July 1 Tom Hargis, Randy Leavitt and I established Base Camp at the foot of the Nameless Tower in the Trango group, on the Dunge Glacier. Our objective was the southeast face of Nameless Tower. From Base C...
Bhagirathi III (6454m), attempt. The four-man German team of Robert Jasper, Walter Hölzler, and Rainer Treppte with cameraman Jochen Schmoll planned to climb the true crest of the southwest pillar, left of the 1982 Barton-Fyffe Route. The climbers...
Shivling. Larry Stanier, Rob Orvig, Alison Andrews and I were settled into Base Camp at Topovan on September 22. We had intended to climb a direct finish on the north ridge of Shivling. However, recent heavy snowfalls and the huge overhanging summ...
Dhaulagiri, Post-Monsoon Northeast Ridge Attempts. There were five expeditions that attempted to climb the normal northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, but none succeeded. They were 5 Frenchmen led by Daniel Bianchi (high point: 7500 meters on September ...
Cristal, Cacique and Mascarello, Upsala Glacier. In early 1995, Rolando Garibotti, Ramón Calvo and Diego Luro had hoped to cross the Glaciar Upsala to climb Murallón, but they found the crevasses so wide that they gave up trying to cross and had t...
The Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford W. Ashley 4vo., 619 pages, fully illustrated. New York: Doubleday, Doran & Co., 1944. Price $7.50.If the would-be reader is told that close to 4000 knots are written up in this book, each with one or more ...