Pumori, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Near Tragedy. Gil McCormick, Jim Nowak and I made the first ever attempt on the northwest ridge of Pumori, which forms the border between Nepal and Tibet and rises sharply from the Changri Shar Glacier. From Jir...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVEREDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallJoe Miller (38) fell to his death on the morning of June 22 while climbing the Yellow Spur route (5.9) on the Redgarden Wall. A later investigation revealed that a micr...

Shisha Pangma and Unique Training Method. On September 5, I reached the summit of Shisha Pangma with Italians Fausto De Stefani and Sergio Martini by the normal route. We had Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 5550, 6400, 6900 and 7300 meters. We h...

Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada, compiled by Richard M. Leonard and the Committee of Mountain Records, Sierra Club. 1937, with supplement to 1939.

Kwangde Nup, north buttress direct ascent, Cheap Wine. During the post monsoon Czech climbers, Jan Doudlebsky and Radek Lienerth, completed a new direct finish to the 1989 American route on the North Buttress of Kwangde Nup (6035m). The pair began...

RAPPEL FAILURE—ERROR IN ANCHORING, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn September 10, David and Edward, (both 18), from England, and temporary employees of the Banff Springs Hotel, were rock climbing on the lower ridge of Mt. Rundl...

Tashi Kang and Peak 6,195m, ascents. While acclimatizing for their attempt on the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, a group of primarily German climbers successfully reaced the top of two low 6,000m peaks in the Hidden Valley, north-northeast of Dhau...

Broad Peak Attempt and Ghondokhoro La. An Himalayan Kingdom expedition was led by Welshman Martin Barnicott with climbing leader Russell Brice from New Zealand. The clients were Italian Fulvio Fresia, Canadian Dr. Stuart Hutchinson, Finn Mikko Val...

Harvard. If one is to judge by performance, past, present and (probable) future, the Harvard Mountaineering Club still occupies a stellar position in the collegiate mountaineering scene. The club has successfully adjusted itself to post-war condit...

L’Oeuvre scientifique du Club Alpin Français (1874-1922). 8 vo. ; pp. 518, with illustrations, maps and index. Paris, 1936.In an impressive volume the scientific committee of the French Alpine Club presents the club’s work over a period of fifty y...

Mount Kenya. John Reader. Elm Tree Books, London, 1989. 160 pages, color photographs. £ 25.00.In this age when ‘climbing’ conjures up visions of Lycra-clad youth grunting and swearing as they push the limits of human endurance another notch, it is...

FALL ON SNOW/ICE, MODERATE EXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 20, Scott Porter (32), Karl Ahrens (35) and Brian Nelson (32) were descending the upper Emmons Glacier after summiting. SMR members Kim Klasch and Bob Schumaker were on standb...

Peaks East of Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Cucamonga Rambling Company Expedition spent one month, from June 25 to July 23, on the eastern side of the Pumasillo massif. Our group consisted of two women, Kathy Anderson1 and me1, and three m...

FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Doughton ParkOn January 19, Shawn Hansen (30) died after the anchors he was using to support his friend on an ice floe broke loose.Hansen's friend, Ed Williams (30) of Raleigh ...

Washington, Cascades, Monte Cristo Peak. On July 15, Val Comstock (66) and two companions were descending from the summit to join another party. The steep but excellent snow conditions and the beautiful weather encouraged sitting glissades. On one...

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyBrian Bennett (21) and Alan Swanson (24) stated that they began climbing the Harding Route on Glacier Point Apron (Grade III, Y.D.S. 5.7), at 10...

Annapurna I, Northwest Ridge, New Route. A 10-member expedition (eight Poles, one Ukrainian and one American) led by Michal Kochanczyk, successfully surmounted the formidable unclimbed northwest ridge of Annapurna I, the world’s tenth highest moun...

British Columbia, Rockies, Mt. Vice-President. On 10 August J. A. Van Geldersen (26) of Vancouver, was climbing solo in Yoho National Park. He first climbed Mt. President, descended it safely, and then reached the top of Vice-President. While desc...

Palisade Traverse, second continuous ascent. Our climb consisted of a complete traverse of the Sierra Crest from Southfork Pass to the summit of Mt. Agassiz, a distance of approximately eight miles. This route is notable not only for its length bu...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOntario, Dundas, Webster’s FallsOn February 7, 1982, Glenn Yates (21) and Graeme Smith (19) were ice climbing at Webster’s Falls. The following is an edited version of Smith’s account of the accident.After a good ...