Alaska Section. It was a busy year in the most northern of AAC sections. We officially purchased and signed the lease agreement with the State for the Snowbird Hut on the lateral moraine of the Snowbird Glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains—the first...
After reading trip reports and getting beta from Freddie Wilkinson, who along with various partners has established multiple climbs in the area, from April 8-20 Joey McBrayer and I explored the Northeast Fork of the Yentna Glacier. In mostly disma...
Various free ascents. In July and August Nick Martino, Cedar Wright, and I freed two unrepeated aid lines on the Minaret of South Howser. On both the Italian Pillar (V 11+) and the Southwest Pillar (V 12- R/X) we created new pitches that wander fr...
Geographical Districts1951-811982Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1304627124556British Colombia1406026618646Yukon Territory1819392312Ontario13423309Quebec10225103East Arctic...
OUT OF BOUNDS–LOST, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Rock Spring CanyonOn February 6 at 1330, Cameron Morgan (25), Jonathan Gagne (25), and Katherine Gagne (24) left the Teton Village Ski Area boundaries with th...
Good Neighbor PeakWilliam PillingMOUNT VANCOUVER HAS TWO MAIN SUMMITS, north and south, connected by a relatively horizontal ridge. The slightly higher northern summit was climbed in 1948 by Walter Wood’s party (AAJ, 1950, pages 367-378). The sout...
The Northwest Arête of the West Pillar of Punta Herron, La Gioconda. The weather was always bad, even when we humped loads to Paso Marconi. On October 12, we decided to leave for the Circle of the Altares. The weather was beautiful, but after only...
The Mountains of ArizonaWeldon F. HealdMountains, mountains, everywhere, Nor any peak to climb” is a paraphrase which might be applied to Arizona. Yet it is hardly a fair statement. Although it’s true that all the highest summits may be reached by...
FALL ON ROCK–CLIMBER LOWERED OFF END OF ROPE BY BELAYEROregon, Smith Rock State Park, Magic LightOn February 21, Timothy Garland (24) climbed Magic Light in the Overboard Area of Smith Rock State Park. Magic Light is a bolted route rated 5.12b, tw...
The Elevator ShaftA wild ride to the summit of Mount Johnsonby DOUG CHABOTThe first time I saw Mount Johnson (8,460 feet) was from a plane in 1992 as I was heading to the Ruth Glacier to guide a 12-day mountaineering trip. On its north face was an...
Mont Forel and Schweizerland, 1986. On the evening of July 9, 1986, Duncan Bond, Greg Englefield, Jim Lowther and I departed by boat from Angmagssalik to the head of Tasilaq Fjord where our Base Camp was to be located a few kilometers up the valle...
Chaupi Orko, Southeast Ridge. From May 15-20 Raymundo Condori, Osvaldo Cortez, Andreas (a journalist from Poland), and I traveled toward Lake Suches. Heavy snow stopped us on a secondary road two mountain passes before Flor de Nevado Mine, so we h...
PARTY SEPARATED, FATIGUE, DARKNESS, HYPOTHERMIA, CLIMBER LOST California, North Fork —Big Pine CreekOn Monday, October 12,1986, Debra Melvin (32) and her husband Mark ascended 4242 meter Polemonium Peak near North Palisade. Their route was the 300...
Sita Chuchura (Tukuche West) Attempt. Eric Delcasso led this eight-man French expedition. Three climbers and the sirdar ascended nearby 6000-meter summits and then four climbers and the sirdar devoted their attention to Sita Chuchura while the oth...
Fourteen Thousand Feet: A history of the naming and early ascents of the high Colorado peaks, by James Lathrop Jerome Hart. Second edition, with a Climbers Guide to the high Colorado peaks, by Elinor Eppich Kingery. Denver, Colo. Colorado Mountain...
Ocshapalca, south face. Back in Huaraz after the Huayhuash, I rejoined my friend Iñigo Mujica (Note: Baró Ramon and Mujica had climbed on Chacraraju and Jirishanca Norte. See note in Huayhuash section.) A team of four was descending after finishin...
Camps and Climbs in Arctic Norway, by Thomas Weir. 85 pages, 58 photographs, 4 maps. London: Cassell and Co., Ltd., 1953. Price, 15/—.Mr. Weir has written a charming account of a mountaineering holiday in Arctic Norway. He describes the climbs he ...
Wyoming: (2) Tetons. Four college boys, driving up to the Tetons in the early afternoon, decided to scramble up the mountainside. Tourists directed them in by a small road They found their way to the lower snow slopes of Teewinot - - not knowing w...
El Mocho, East Buttress; Torre Innominata, North Spur; Aguja Poincenot, East Face; Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face; and Other Climbs. Michel Piola and I arrived at Chaltén on December 6, 1988. Our first intention had been to try a new route on th...
FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ERRORCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn November 20, Meghan (30) and Matt (40), a husband and wife team, had spent a relaxed day climbing Royal Arches (17 pitches, 5.7 A1 or 5.9). Their friends, Greg and Rick, were cli...