Mount Winstone, North Face, and North Face Direct, 1983. In early August 1983, Fred Beckey, Greg Collum, Jim Nelson, Chuck Gerson and I walked up the glacier below Winstone’s north face. Fred had to turn back because of injuries from a recent car ...
Allan Peak and Mt. Ennis. The route described under Mt. Allan should be applied to Mt. Ennis, and, unless other information is forthcoming, Allan Peak is considered to be as yet unascended. Mt. Ennis has been ascended by two routes: (1) The probab...
Kankar Pünzum Attempt, 1986. (The report on this expedition has only just now become available. —Editor.) A team of five Britons, an American and a New Zealander was led by Steve Berry. In October of 1986 they took ten days to reach Base Camp at 1...
Shishapangma. Dr. Makoto Hara led another Nagoya High-Mountain Research Institute expedition, this time to Shishapangma. All members reached the summit by the normal route. One of the members, Masaaki Tomita, made an amazingly fast ascent from Adv...
Cashan Este, Mathi, Matias. In July 1998 I departed from Olleros and walked toward Rurec's Quebrada (creek), before arriving at Tararhua Lake (4400m), where I set up my tent. From there I went to the southeast face of Cashan (5723m). I climbed in ...
South Early Winter Spire, North Face, 1988. In August 1988, Doug Ingersoll and I climbed a partially new route of the west face of North Early Winter Spire. From a point just below the chockstone between the two spires, we climbed directly up to a...
Ten Peak Mountain, North Buttress. This is the rather prominent buttress which can be seen on the Sierra Club poster, “The Wild Cascades. In mid-August, Phil Leatherman and I made the approach via the White River trail and a cross-country high rou...
Bath Mountain, Tulainyo Tower and Mount Whitney. In September, Kenn Kenaga and I climbed a new route up the south side of Bath Mountain, just left of the southeast buttress. Low on the south face are two dihedrals; our route started on the left on...
International Kanchenjunça Expedition. Dispatches in the New York Times of May 24th report the death of Chettan, a veteran porter of all three Everest expeditions, who was killed by an avalanche on the upper Kanchenjunga Glacier on the northwester...
Koh-i-Mondi, North Face. Our expedition was led by Peter Board-man and composed of Bill Church, Chris FitzHugh, Oliver and Margaret Stansfield, Bob Watson and me. We approached the Jouomeh valley (spelled Youmeh by Ian Rowe in A.A.S., 1971 and giv...
McKinley, South Face, Milan Kriššak Memorial Route. Mark Bunker and I completed the second ascent of this route, taking nine days Base Camp to Base Camp. Unlike the Koreans, who were on the American Direct, we climbed without fixed ropes alpine-st...
Pumori, Winter Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Werner Stricker, Stefan Plangger, Andreas Wellenzohn, Johann Zoderer and me as leader. We had hoped to make a winter ascent of the southeast ridge of Pumori. After a 12-day approach, we got to ...
Annapurna South or Moditse Attempt. A Japanese expedition from the Sagamino Alpine Club was led by Kuniaki Yamada. They attempted a new route from the northeast but failed at 22,175 feet, where a Japanese and a Sherpa turned back on April 28 becau...
High Altitude Medical Science. G. Ueda, S. Kusama and N.F. Voelkel, editors.Shinshu University Press, Matsumoto, 1988. 462 pages, charts, tables.As Japanese climbers have swarmed over the highest Himalaya in the last twenty years, their doctors ha...
FALLS ON ROCK, STRANDED, NO HARD HAT, ETCNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledges and Cannon Cliffs(The following excerpt from George Hurley’s personal “Newsletter" he sends out at least twice a year captures the summer accident scene in New Hampshire. Geo...
FALL WHILE DESCENDING—California, Yosemite Valley, North Dome Gully. John Shiner (23) and two friends had successfully climbed the Arches Direct 5.7 Al, spent the night and tried to come down the standard descentroute of North Dome Gully. It was m...
Elephant Head, Northwest Ridge. On August 6 James Martin and I climbed this route from our camp on the Dome Glacier. We traversed the upper Dana Glacier and started climbing left of Elephant Head’s steep west face. After several hundred feet of sc...
Nanda Kot, east ridge, attempt: Nanda Devi East, south ridge, attempt. Our approach to the Nanda Devi region began on August 30. After a three-day bus ride, six days walking up an ancient Indo-Tibetan trade route brought us to a base camp below Na...
Abi Gamin. A 12-member Indian team led by Vasant V. Limaye failed to climb Kamet, but they summited on Abi Gamin (7355 meters, 24,130 feet) in September.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
On November 28 Martin Ploug and I, from Denmark, made the first ascent of Ren Zhong Feng, a little-known peak that was believed to be one of the few remaining unclimbed 6,000m summits in Sichuan Province. We established base camp at 3,100m in the...